Since my last post in this thread I've gone back to the glass bed and have been printing with no issues. It was definitely a nozzle gap issue. I had originally set it bigger on purpose for reasons that don't warrant going into because it didn't help. Going back to a single sheet of paper to gauge with my results have been good. Haven't tried printing directly on the glass since I had already applied some kapton but I may try it again once I get to a point where the tape needs to be replaced. I have to say that my prints really aren't any better or worse than before as far as I can tell. The one benefit I've seen is the ability to remove the plate and stick it in the freezer to cool things off and aid in part removal. I did have one multi-piece print that I ran on it where the mating surfaces were both printed on the glass. The resulting flatness meant that the glue seam is all but invisible. The only sign that the two parts were ever not one is the sudden change in surface finish (one part ends as a large flange while the other is a much smaller cylinder). Not complaining mind you, I've seen at least one small benefit and no negatives to go along with it so I'm gonna stick with glass. Still toying with the idea of removing the aluminum plate though just to gain back the lost build height, as small as it may be.