Results 1 to 10 of 17
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11-24-2014, 07:57 PM #1
Urgent,need help,use Glass and PVA glue,but fail to stick
Hi everybody,that is very urgent things that i use Glass and PVA glue to print PLA,but usually faill to stick.i do not understand what the problem is,anybody could show me the PVA Glue you used,is there any other ways to solve this problem?
thank you so much.
Become warped edge all round and print fault
QQ??20141125095124.jpg
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11-24-2014, 09:40 PM #2
- Join Date
- Aug 2014
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- Montreal, Quebec
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Your parts are exactly designed to ask for warping issue. Can you get ridd of the brutal corner geometry?
Alternatively, you can turn off the fan and add a brim to solve your problem.
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11-24-2014, 10:44 PM #3
I would get a kids CLAG glue stick. Apply it just before it starts printing as it dries fairly quick - this will give you a pretty good bond and cheap. It is also easy to scrape off the glass afterwards.
There is nothing wrong with the Geometry of your object, not sure what Richard is talking aboutHex3D - 3D Printing and Design http://www.hex3d.com
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11-25-2014, 12:22 AM #4
I'll second the glue stick. It does work well and if you use Elmers Purple Glue Stick you can wash it off in the sink. CLAG might be exactly the same but I've never used it. Be careful with PVA glue on glass. I've cracked two expensive pieces of borosilicate glass. It stuck so well that as the part cooled and tried to release, it cracked the glass instead of releasing. I couldn't believe it.
That's a lot of warp for PLA. What bed temp are you using? Is your bed open to drafts? If so, try enclosing it with foamcor or cardboard and try to seal out as much draft as you can. That technique has helped me alot. I've seen warp like that on ABS but not on PVA. You might try PET+. It's a really nice filament and it sticks well and warps very little. It's like a perfect cross between PLA and ABS.Bambu P1S/AMS
NVision4D http://nvision4d.com
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11-25-2014, 12:25 AM #5
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- Aug 2014
- Location
- Montreal, Quebec
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Personally, I really hate parts that has some sort of flange on the edge and the massive body inside. I can't seem to print a sucessfull part without adding a thick amount of brim, else there will be a spot that will lift. At least, it does happen frequently when I forgot to add a thick brim on parts that are 6inch and over.
The other time, I managed to screwed up parts for omiting to turn off the fan. I managed to have PLA from colorfabb, warping for leaving the fan on too early. That's just silly for not realizing settings were reset when I update my Cura.
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11-25-2014, 12:32 AM #6
- Join Date
- Aug 2014
- Location
- Montreal, Quebec
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- 576
Back to the topic,
Does the author have a heat bed? What are the print settings, nozzle, bed, room temperature (heck I've seen one of the tech printing in room around 19C..)
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11-25-2014, 08:41 AM #7
- I will concur with RobHQ's enclosure tip. Controlling the air temperature & removing air drafts in itself will resolve a lot of corner lifting tendencies, another is the bed temperature. I run my bed at 55C for PLA. For some materials (like Flex TPC), I model a custom brim/support (example in this article) in the areas I predict will lift.
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11-26-2014, 12:21 AM #8
Thanks for you help ,i print another one last night,use glue thicker,no warped edge problem but still print fault like following photos.
QQ??20141126141547.jpg QQ??20141126141554.jpg QQ??20141126141558.jpg
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11-26-2014, 12:23 AM #9
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11-26-2014, 12:24 AM #10
Holes and pockmarks in print walls
Yesterday, 09:14 AM in General 3D Printing Discussion