Results 11 to 20 of 21
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10-19-2014, 06:58 PM #11
- Join Date
- Oct 2014
- Posts
- 7
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10-19-2014, 09:48 PM #12
- Join Date
- Oct 2014
- Location
- Fargo, ND
- Posts
- 21
Wait for the LulzBot Mini to be released, 6" x 6" 6" build volume, auto-leveling, runs a modified version of Cura instead of Slic3r, so super easy to use. Plus it has an all-metal hot-end, so you can use a huge variety of materials.
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10-20-2014, 09:39 AM #13
- Join Date
- Aug 2014
- Posts
- 25
been going good, had some issue of the wrong firmware being on the ramps. had the 8" firmware. once i changed it my bigger prints were not getting cut off. i later printed out a different z end stop to make it easier to get the extruded height from the bed easier. after i did that and did a lot of printing and than added auto bed leveling. which made a huge difference for me in time to get ready to print. before you have to manually level out the bed which can be a pain especially after every print.
i could not find the first z endstop i printed out. that little upgrade made it less frustrating to level the bed
auto bed leveling from thingiverse
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:335632
if you do it follow the guide on thingiverse as far as what to print and what to buy. than you will use zennmaster guide on setting up marlin.
not to hard to get going but it was worth it.
questions or issue just let me know.
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10-20-2014, 10:31 PM #14
- Join Date
- Jun 2014
- Posts
- 74
I got the MakerFarm i3v 10" about 2 months ago. It was my first experience with 3D printing so the learning curve has been pretty steep. It is turning out very good prints and I'm very happy with it. I also setup the ABL with the same thingivers items you did nefi and it makes a very big difference in print quality. Well worth the effort to figure out. One of my biggest challenges was getting rid of warp with ABS. PLA was printing great but I struggled with ABS until I read a post on this forum by Prinbus that said to turn the Hexagon cooling fan around so it was drawing air through the heatsink fins rather than the stock setup of blowing air through the heatsink. Just that change stopped all warp for me and now I can print both ABS and PLA great... and it was a 5 minute fix. It appears that blowing through the heatsink allows the air to bounce off the back of the X-carriage and blow back on the print causing the warp. If you haven't tried that yet, give it a shot, great tip by Printbus.
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10-21-2014, 09:01 AM #15
- Join Date
- Aug 2014
- Posts
- 25
thanks for the tip. i stopped printing with abs because of the warping. what temp do you have your bed and nozzle at with abs? i also have this setup http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:335613 im still using the fans it came with tho. i did get the smaller fan just been lazy to take it apart and wire it up. might do it today since my filament is not feeding, getting stuck and the bolt is just eating at the filament.
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10-21-2014, 09:42 AM #16
- Join Date
- Jun 2014
- Posts
- 74
I'm printing ABS with a bed temp of 110c and the hotend at 240c. I have heard good things about jclough's fan and shroud system from others but haven't tried it myself yet. Let me know what you think of it after you get it installed.
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10-21-2014, 12:26 PM #17
- Join Date
- Oct 2014
- Posts
- 7
you will not be sorry,i love mine
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10-30-2014, 10:14 AM #18
- Join Date
- Aug 2014
- Posts
- 25
print issues
IMAG0263_1.jpgHaving some print issues see pic. Printing @ .1
Last edited by nefiwashere; 10-30-2014 at 10:24 AM.
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11-07-2014, 10:11 AM #19
I have a solidoodle. I works great for me. But you need to do few upgrades yourself.
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11-14-2014, 07:47 AM #20
- Join Date
- Jun 2014
- Posts
- 349
Overextrusion, or burnt filament?
Design not printing solid
09-17-2024, 06:12 AM in 3D Modeling, Design, Scanners