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11-05-2013, 10:12 AM #1
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- Nov 2013
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Is there a way to join two printed projects?
I am looking at possibly building something larger than a typical build container. After I print two pieces, is there a way to reheat or join the two pieces together to form a similar strength bond? Example: l + _ = L
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11-05-2013, 10:19 AM #2
I've done it on a Makerbot before, but that was a chain that I just kinda slid onto the plate and locked it with the current print.
Whenever we break a model, most superglue seems to work perfectly fine, you might try that.
In terms of a set way to actually melt the pieces together, I'm not sure it would be easy, if possible at all.
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11-05-2013, 10:25 AM #3
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In the past, I've made the pieces mechanically fit together, like snaps or puzzle pieces. Glue works great for most things too, though I haven't tried it with resin yet, only with ABS and PLA.
I haven't tried this, but I suspect you could use some extra resin as glue. Apply it to the surface, then cure it with a strong UV light. I'm going to be testing a UV EEPROM eraser as a way to cure undercured prints.
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11-05-2013, 01:15 PM #4
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- Sep 2013
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I know acetone works wonders on acylic, but I haven't played with resin yet. That will be among my tests, what glue works for the resins.
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11-06-2013, 06:56 AM #5
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How about just dipping the edge in resin, joining the pieces, and then putting it outside? Obviously the resin sticks to already-hardened resin when it hardens (that's how the Peachy builds objects) so the liquid resin between the two parts should stick to both of them. Outside you've got the sun as a big UV light source to harden it.
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11-06-2013, 07:14 AM #6
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- Oct 2013
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The best solution is an interlocking structure (dovetail joint). ABS should be gluable with acetone (I havent tried it). If the contact area is small and has long contact edges you can plastic weld the parts together by using a thin pre-extruded plastic thread an an old or covered temperature regulatable soldering iron. Also there is the possibility of using short pieces of filament as dowels. Heated nails in preprinted slightly to small holes can work too. If you glue make sure there is no lever effect possible.
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11-06-2013, 08:06 AM #7
I've used this for a few things that I had to print in pieces. It usually works well, but sometimes you have to adjust the size of the clips, because even though they fit together in the modeling program of your choice, they might not fit so well when printed. Usually they're too tight, I have yet to have clips be loose.
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11-07-2013, 07:43 AM #8
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- Oct 2013
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That's pretty normal for 3D printers; the output part is always a tiny bit over-size. On the Stratasys one at uni we make any tight-fitting parts 0.1mm smaller than they should be and that generally results in a nice fit.
On the other hand, for laser cut parts we aim for a fraction oversize (ie make a tab 5.05mm to fit into a 5mm hole) since the laser cutter always makes things very slightly undersize.
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11-30-2013, 06:14 PM #9
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acetone works wonders on abs ! bond is as strong as the plastic if you do it correctly!
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11-30-2013, 09:42 PM #10
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x2 cadfab. for abs just solvent weld it together with acetone. its how abs pipe has been joined for years and years. its totally permanent when done. i have a model i did that was too big. i split it in two and then fit both pieces on the build plate together. a little acetone when done and its one piece. after solvent bonding anything wait 24 hours to harden fully. if its pla you can solvent weld with methylene chloride if you can find it. you can order on line in small amounts. its made by weld-on. you bond acrylic and and polycarb with the same thing. if your looking for an actual super strong adhesive for plastics then get a methyl methacrylate type adhesive. that is a permanent as well. with all these mentioned youll have substrate failure before the bond joint lets go.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:178538
New member with print issue
06-11-2024, 08:57 AM in Tips, Tricks and Tech Help