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Thread: MakerFarm 10" i3v build
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09-05-2014, 02:57 PM #11
I wanted to make a note for anyone who upgrades to the aluminum spiral couplings like I did: you will need to put some foil tape around the lead screw to make it large enough to fit a 5mm coupling. Also, the two different brands of couplers I tried (one from MakerFarm and another random from ebay) obscured the Z end-stop so that it is nearly impossible to adjust. That is remedied by either taking your 5mm hex wrench and cutting 7mm or so off the short leg so that there is room to work behind the coupler or better yet, moving to the screw adjustable end-stop for the 10" from MiniMadRyan.
Great suggestion. I used two 16 gauge ATX power supply wires into the heat bed relay from the PS. This should be enough for the current the bed draws. For the next print I do, I'll put a voltmeter on the relay and set it up next to the camera. I note that I don't have any temperature drop for PLA when I run the bed at 70. I'm wondering if the extruder fan shroud is blowing air down onto the bed and cooling it faster than it can reheat. Once my working piece of ABS gets a centimeter or more tall or wide enough, the temperature goes back up to 110. I'm using the stock fan shroud model, though I have had to print it as the original melted before I discovered your trick if cutting it out and using Kapton tape.Last edited by dacb; 09-05-2014 at 03:00 PM. Reason: clarification
Holes and pockmarks in print walls
Yesterday, 09:14 AM in General 3D Printing Discussion