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Thread: Nylon Filament
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08-05-2014, 05:40 AM #11
- Join Date
- Jul 2014
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- EU
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- 26
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08-05-2014, 11:01 AM #12
Yes, I did create a chamber and used a heated bed but I must still be getting a draft. I did read about using PVA glue on the glass so I tried that. It worked like a champ, only one problem, as the part dried, it cracked the expensive borosilicate glass. Really, here's a photo:
PVA.jpg
So what I tried next was wood. I used a piece that was 3/4 inch thick and nice and smooth. That worked well and since I have autoleveling set up it went smoothly. That actually worked the best. I'm have enough 618 for one more print so I'm trying to use it up. I've switched to Bridge Nylon and it's much more friendly.Bambu P1S/AMS
NVision4D http://nvision4d.com
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08-05-2014, 12:30 PM #13
- Join Date
- Jul 2014
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- EU
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Whoa :O
I've never printed things that large from Nylon, but I used to un-tension ABS parts mid-print. I used a hairdryer to rapidly raise the temperature of the whole model and chamber, to make it approach the lower glass transition temperature of nylon (did it by the thumb), then let it cool in normal ambient temperature of the print chamber. This may help.
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08-05-2014, 03:30 PM #14
As I type this I am building a part that's about 250mm x 90mm - pretty big. Even with glue on an acrylic bed, 618 wants to curl at the corners. So we applied a trick we've learned when designing parts to be built with nylon. Basically you build a brim straight out from all the edges, in this case 10mm in all directions. Unlike a traditional raft that goes underneath like Makerbot wants to do when you slice it with the raft box called out on the slice, this is actually part of the model itself, added in Solidworks to the original model that was designed in Solidworks. Unlike the brim that slicing engines like Slic3r and Voxelizer add, you can make this as thick or thin as you want. Since we are slicing at 0.2mm layer thickness, we made the brim on this part 0.4mm so it would be 2 layers thick.
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08-06-2014, 06:59 AM #15
ah - now that's clever.
@robh2
So what I tried next was wood. I used a piece that was 3/4 inch thick and nice and smooth. That worked well and since I have autoleveling set up it went smoothly. That actually worked the best. I'm have enough 618 for one more print so I'm trying to use it up. I've switched to Bridge Nylon and it's much more friendly.
So are you using a flashforge - and if so how did you set the autolevelling thing up ?
Very interested in that.
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08-06-2014, 09:56 AM #16
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08-06-2014, 10:32 AM #17
My pound of 618 was primarily used up proving that it is nearly impossible to print large items with 618. I did figure out what Jeff has learned, that if you put something around the corners they might stay down better. I used quarter sized thin (2mm tall) cylinders. That's what held so well with PVA that I cracked my glass.
So next I tried wood. I've attached a photo of that. IT had different tabs. I called them "X-Tabs" when I labeled my 3d files. Since (with all the fantastic help from Roxy) I had autolevel working pretty well, I just put the wood on, ran autolevel and printed. It stuck. It was my first successful print. The other photo shows the warp I was fighting.
That stain you see on the wood was another attempt to salvage a print. It started to lift so I put some superglue under the lift and held it down, hoping to reattach it. That didn't work. Nylon, as I suspected, won't stick to superglue. But wood and fingers sure do. I had to use an xacto blade to get my finger off of the wood. That was kind of hilarious as the print continued to run. I wish I had a video of that.
Nylon618Success.jpg NylonWarp.jpg
Edit: Oh yea, 'curious aardvark', I have a Makerfarm Prusa i3 8" printer. I think it's in my signature. Once you get it going autolevel is fantastic. Right Roxy?Bambu P1S/AMS
NVision4D http://nvision4d.com
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08-06-2014, 11:10 AM #18
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08-06-2014, 11:41 AM #19
Oh, misunderstood. Here are a few photos. The white stuff you see is Sugru. I used it to keep the wires from flexing and breaking off. Nothing worse than losing power on that servo and getting a head crash. It's not pretty but it works well. The piece of copper wire you see sticking out helps torque the sensor over so it's more parallel with the bed. The side of my hotend carriage is a bit angled and I needed to compensate for that. I know it looks jury rigged, but, it works well.
AL01.jpg AL02.jpg AL03.jpg AL04.jpg AL05.jpgBambu P1S/AMS
NVision4D http://nvision4d.com
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08-07-2014, 02:44 AM #20
It's amazing how much climate will affect things, I literally have no chamber, have no auto level on this thing, and yes sure ive repaired and rebuilt and recalibrated it more times than I can remember, it will print raftless on the kapton and stick there forever, nylon or ABS..
man that sucks about the glass cracking...
I am printing off my Prusa parts, so far so good and yeah after replacing a mainboard and drivers my flashforge is ready for one more haul to make its replacement
lolz.JPG
New member with print issue
06-11-2024, 08:57 AM in Tips, Tricks and Tech Help