Glass build platform is the way to go!

[lycan]

Gday,

I have been using the sheeting that came with my T-Shirt printing press with great success, it is very strong and can withstand temperatures above 200 Celcius. merely cut the sheet to size and tape the edges down.

Just a thought for you all

[jdg56]

I just received the Flashforge glass bed that I intend to use with my PowerSpec printer. I probably will look for tempered glass locally in the future to save some money, but I needed some kapton tape anyway...

The PowerSpec has a bit of a different bed carriage than the Flashforge, as far as I can tell. It has a flat metal plate on a frame underneath, that cannot be seen from the outside. As such, the little shim that people have been using to reset the Z-axis won't work with the PowerSpec. I'm working on a larger shim that will use the side-stabilizers on the Z-axis as end-points and then just run across the back of the metal plate to trigger the limit switch. I"m also going to play with the thickness, as the Z-axis springs/screws are at their tightest just to level the bed, and I'd like to have a bit more leeway.

The biggest thing I'm worried about is how to attach the glass to the existing bed structure. I'm thinking of using medium-sized binder clips, but the glass is 7mm thick and the aluminum plate is 6+mm, and the heater comes right out to the edge of the aluminum plate. I am worried about the pressure one of the mid-sized clips will exert on the structure. I think crushing the heater would not be a good thing.

Has anyone done the binder clip attachment for their glass bed on a Creator X? How did it work? Are there any other alternatives? (I'd like the glass to be removable for kapton replacement, cleaning, and severely stuck work product, so I don't want to nail it in place. )

[jfkansas]

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:390209 This is a part I designed to lower the zaxis switch. It is 5.5mm lower which is good for 1/4" glass (6.35mm), and 3/16" glass (4.7mm). Actually on mine I was able to use a longer bolt on on the back of the z axis threaded insert and raise it up with a spacer about 5.5mm thick. The switch lever hits this bolt so raising it works also.

You really don't need Kapton on glass. If you use PLA, your best bet is to line the glass with Blue painters tape. ABS on glass is best with melted ABS in Acetone making a slurry.

Binder clips work fine but the ones I have barely fit on the 1/4" glass. They wont crush the heater plate.

I just received the Flashforge glass bed that I intend to use with my PowerSpec printer. I probably will look for tempered glass locally in the future to save some money, but I needed some kapton tape anyway...

The PowerSpec has a bit of a different bed carriage than the Flashforge, as far as I can tell. It has a flat metal plate on a frame underneath, that cannot be seen from the outside. As such, the little shim that people have been using to reset the Z-axis won't work with the PowerSpec. I'm working on a larger shim that will use the side-stabilizers on the Z-axis as end-points and then just run across the back of the metal plate to trigger the limit switch. I"m also going to play with the thickness, as the Z-axis springs/screws are at their tightest just to level the bed, and I'd like to have a bit more leeway.

The biggest thing I'm worried about is how to attach the glass to the existing bed structure. I'm thinking of using medium-sized binder clips, but the glass is 7mm thick and the aluminum plate is 6+mm, and the heater comes right out to the edge of the aluminum plate. I am worried about the pressure one of the mid-sized clips will exert on the structure. I think crushing the heater would not be a good thing.

Has anyone done the binder clip attachment for their glass bed on a Creator X? How did it work? Are there any other alternatives? (I'd like the glass to be removable for kapton replacement, cleaning, and severely stuck work product, so I don't want to nail it in place. )