Thank you all again for the feedback!

@airscapesI can see how based on what I shared, I’m over engineering a solution to a minor problem. I glossed over dozens of parts I want to print, because the printer right now seems more than capable of it. However the one part that requires special consideration is the piece that I plan to put in the engine compartment of a car. Others have done this, but in PLA, and they had complained about it sagging, I wanted to get ahead of the problem and use something that was temperature resistant. Unfortunately this part isn’t purchasable in aluminum because it is very much a do it yourself project.

@gamboThank you for confirming the product from McMaster. I think based on what was shared, I’ll try PVA on glass first and then the garolite variant you mentioned from McMaster to compare the results. As @airspaces had inquired, what level of “scuff” did you get it to? Finally, what is your PVA formulation? Do you use magigoo or did you just mix 50/50 water and elmer’s all glue?

@curisou aardvarkThank you for the heads up, I hadn’t thought about filament deformation, I wouldof clearly baked the filament. Most sources I saw said to use around 55C to 60C. I’m not entirely sure what you meant by Excalibur type? I’m thinking that’s a jargon I’m not familiar with. I specifically got this because of the temperature control:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

From my research, dehydrating would reduce the water content of a filament, whereas using desiccant only maintains it? I read some folks dislike the desiccant route because if you buy them in bulk, they are often loose and the powder can get on the filament and muck up the nozzle


I plan to heat my enclosure, would having that at 40C be ideal?