But I can still adjust my babysteps directly as Martin said. I just now have another layer I can do that with. The slicer software is a necessary evil. We have to use it. And that feature is there. To say you don't like or want to use it is weird because you will have to use a slicer to get to each and every print. And that slicer can never be universal to many printers. It must always be custom taylored in it's setting for your specific printer. So then it shouldn't bother you to add this feature in your slicer. It is a positive offset we are dealing with so there is never a chance this could lead to the touchy touchy between the nozzle and bed. In fact this method protects against just that.

This method allows for homing with cold filament hanging from the nozzle. So many of us are so careful to make sure in our start Gcode we warm the extruder before we home just because of this. hot filament oozes and cold filament hanging from the nozzle can push the bed down or the nozzle up before the Z sensor is tripped. I can't believe I am the only one who has experienced this. Anyways now I can home without heaters and do not care about what is hanging from the nozzle. My z offset in S3D is -2.95mm and that amount is why I love the BLTouch over the inductive pickups. There is a greater margin of error. We all have our own ways. I spend a lot of time playing with my robots when they are not printing. So this feature is cool for me to have.

But to be honest I fail to see how it will impact your first layer adhesion issues. Have you tried a thicker first layer? Like 0.3mm? And slowing down your first layer print speed or increasing your first layer extrusion multiplier? I ask because if you look close at some of your prints you can see the texture of the glass bed. This texture has a depth to it. And if your filament layer is close enough to or thinner than the depth of this texture or if your nozzle is moving so fast it does not allow proper time for the melted fiament to seep down the depth of the texture as it passes.

For instance if the depth of that texture is 0.1mm and you are printing with a 0.2mm layer height than you can understand how you might have better squish on half of the texture and reduced squish everywhere the texture drops low. I know your texture is not that deep I am just making an example. Thicker layer heights help greatly on first layers with textured surfaces. And I still think you should be working with an alcohol wiped bed that is cleaned a second time with a fresh paper towel and then wiped with distilled white vinegar as the bed warms. Wiped well but while the printer is warm so it doesnt stay on the bed and evaporates. That very thin invisible film that gets left behind is the only medium you will ever need to get PLA to adhere to glass.