My First CoreXY

[curious aardvark]

if you had a crossbar - you could attach the screen to it :-)

As far as pla versus petg - I did an experiment a short while back. To compare tempered pla to untempered pla.

Did a hollow cylinder with base and a square container.
Did each at 2mm wall and 1.2 mm wall.
Of the four un-tempered prints - only the 1.2mm cylinder was NOT watertight.
And I had to leave that overnight to see any leakage.
Surprised me.

All the tempered parts are watertight.
And all parts were printed at 0.3mm and 150mm/s
I haven't done the temperature tests yet.

But I can say that none of my pla prints break at layer points.
Even the 'aluminium' extrusion i designed and printed at 0.4mm and 150mm/s on the delta - only breaks with diagonal or uneven breaks.

The problem with that kind of article is that they are not using your printer or your settings or the brand of pla you use.
And they are probably sponsored by someone makinging pet-g ;-)

The precision of the sapphire pro 2 has definitely improved the watertightnesss of my prints, to the extent that pretty much everything it prints is watertight.
As to throwing it at the ground - pla prints usually bounce. My workshop floor is concrete - the only broken prints I get are the ones I forget to pick up and that the dog chews up :-)

For anything that needs added toughness I suck it up - timewise - and use PET.
It'll print well at 70mm/s and 235c, to give a print tougher than pet-g and almost as rigid as pla.

But I don't actually see where being watertight and bouncy - has any bearing on a structural support for a 3d printer ?
Surely the prime requirement would be hardness and rigidity. Which pet-g does not have.

Also think how much time you'd save using pla :-)