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Thread: My First CoreXY

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  1. #11
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    yeah - well generally I'm using pla at 205c and with a 0.4mm nozzle and happily printing at a max of 150mm/s and on the same profile a minimum of 120mm/s with about 50% going down at 120mm/s
    A surprising amount is done at 150, it's interesting watching the control panel as it tells you what speed it is currently using. And for most prints it's 90% either 120 or 150. Obviously first layer is a lot slower.
    I did increase all the speed percentages for the various areas of the print. So My minimum is now 80% of max speed and 100% for everything else.



    These are clean prints, not injection moulding smooth - but as good as most of the prints I see online.
    That's mainly with the sapphire pro 2 corexy.

    The delta will print 0.4mm layers with a 0.5mm nozzle at 150mm/s - but it's pretty rough.
    If you pop the pla up to 215 you get good layer adhesion and I have made practical and strong prints at those settings.

    And the difference between a 0.4 and 0.5 mm nozzle is both less than you think in terms of achievable detail and faster in terms of plastic laid down.
    And yes I have printed working 40mm iris boxes on the delat. But at about 50mm/s - not the totally awesome 150mm/s the sapphire will knock them out at.
    That's just the sheer precision of the corexy setup.

    Petg - I can print cleanly at 100mm/s - but generally go down to 75 for anything with any kind of details.

    PET - ah now that's an interesting one.
    I did 2 sets of prints with clear pet yesterday on identical settings.
    One set was brittle as glass and just snapped. The other was bendy at the bit that broke on the other batch.

    So I think i need to up the temperature on that.

    I have no clue about cm3 per min.
    Mainly because I can easily visualise a speed per second but find it a lot harder to visualise cubic centimetres.

    The number of time sin 3d printing I've read a 'definite -this is how it is' statement on filament or printing speeds and then just plain proved it wrong, has got kind of silly over the years.

    It's all a balance between material viscosity, heating speed and extrusion speed.

    So far - with pla certainly - I have yet to find a limit that is imposed by the material and not by the machinery itself.

    I can't get simplify 3d to go faster than 200mm/s. No matter how high you set it, the numbers simply refuse to increase on the previews.

    I did get a useable 200mm/s out of the cheapo plywood i3.
    Made some perfectly functional trolley keys.
    Why it won't lt the sapphire go as fast I don't know. Hell I', even using the same basic profile :-)

    At some point I need to start looking at larger nozzle sizes (god knows I have enough of them).
    And at the 0.8mm and 1.00mm diameter point you start getting into tricky thermodynamic areas.

    Not just getting the material to temperature fast enough - but, far more importantly - cookling it down fast enougn to prevent the bead 'slumping' before it sets.

    As far as acceleration and jerk goes - I have never ever touched those on any printer, so they are either perfect as they come or just crap talked about on youtube :-)

    My standard infill and perimeters are: 3 perimeters and 3 top and bottom layers with 15% infill.
    I've not noticed that changing those has any effect on speeds.
    Obviously the top and bottom layers change when using thinner layers.

    Also when i remember to change it, I set the movement speed the same as the porint speed. That reduces the start and stop effect other people seem to like. Keeping the head moving at the same speed reduces vibration and helps with layer placement and just gives you a much smoother print all round.

    maybe that's why I don't need to mess with acceleration and jerk.
    Basically it's logical.
    Last edited by curious aardvark; 04-07-2021 at 10:25 AM.

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