Printing quality Ender 5.

[EastRaw]

Dear 3D masters,

Please my photos. As a new owner of member of 3D community I'm making my first steps towards good prints.

I've decided to start with upgrades like bed support and etc.. First i've printed the back plates for bed supports and they've came out not bad at all. But now i'm stuck with support arms...

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First good print of support arm went bad somewhere 30% in to the process... I think that one side of the print separated from the bed and printer's nozzle started hitting it.
I've tried fiddling with settings and such but i'm still having issues. What can be the reason for what you see on those pictures?

[EastRaw]

Oh and one more thing, right now i'm printing Benchy and i see that the bed is vibrating somewhat. Is this normal or the nozzle is to close to the printed object?

[EastRaw]

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I've tried printing Benchy and at first it went ok, nothing to write home about but i saw decent shapes. Than i went shopping and got back to Benchy with fanky haircut.
I got tired and leveled the printer again and checked if everything is correct.

[EastRaw]

This time i went for bed support again. Decided to try temp at 215 and bed temp at 60.
Everything comes much more solid and even now, except for one thing. I've tried 3 times and each time things go bad in that corner.

For some reason lines don't connect properly. I have no clue why and what can i do? Any advise?

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[Gambo]

You don't say what material you are using but your photographs look like bed adhesion problems! Some materials stick to the bed plate better than others. If let us know the material and brand we might be able to make some suggestions!

[EastRaw]

Hi Gambo,Thanks for reply, i totally forgot. I'm using PLA and it indeed looks like that's the case.I've tried leveling the bed again and than downloaded and performed bed leveling test. Material doesn't seems to stick to the surface.However when i start normal print it looks better. I've ordered a glass bed and hope it will help things out.What bothers me more is nozzle hitting the print. I'm still fighting with that.

[Gambo]

Glass beds are better because they are flatter! I use a glass bed but clamp a 1mm thick piece of Tufnol (garalite ) to it as the actual print surface and use that for all the materials I use except Polypropylene for which I use adhesive polyprop tape (Sellotape) or 1mm polyprop sheet clamped on to the glass. Even with this set up PLA can sometimes need a coat of PVA glue.Even without the glass plate PVA glue might solve your problems with PLA ? Use a glue stick (Prit or Elmers) warm the glass to 40 or 50 C and apply it the glass.

[EastRaw]

I've looked things up online and just finished my first benchy with .2 line thickness and those are conclusions that i've made.

1. Printer is definitely over extruding. I'm expecting capricorn tubing this week, so i will take care of that issue when they arrive.

2. Bed is junk hehe, good thing I've ordered a new one.

3. I need to find proper setting for my printer.

There are 3 things that i noticed (Pictures).

A lot of fine stringing.

Connection line on the body of the boat. I've already found some info, but if some one knows how to deal with it i'm all ears.

Why is filament glossy near the top of the control tower?

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[Roberts_Clif]

Using my slicer I can select a Seam Position of Random then the Start Seam becomes invisible into this random starting position.

[Gambo]

I assume you mean 0.2 layer height not line width.
Extrusion flow can be adjusted in the CURA slicer. I don't think the Capricorn bowden tube will make much difference to extruder vol. Extruder vol varies in part with the molten filaments viscosity which in turn depends on hot end temperature so you could try varying that up and down in 5c to look for improvement. Stringing is also dependent on nozzle temperature.

All these features ( bed adhesion, material flow stringing) vary greatly between brands even with the same basic material !