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Thread: Ender 3 extruder motor clicking
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01-26-2021, 06:41 AM #11
could also be the voltage or wiring on the stepper motor.
Check the cables are seated properly and there are no tight kinks.
Have you done anything with/to the firmware on the printer ?
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01-26-2021, 05:16 PM #12
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I am able to push it on through with a little help, and the in able to pull it out while it is still hot. And yes, I have changed the nozzle.
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01-26-2021, 05:18 PM #13
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The cables are fine, and I have bot done anything to the firmware. Is that something that needs done?
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01-27-2021, 04:21 AM #14
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The fact that you can help the filament through I think eliminates blockages and the fact that it lays down several layers before the problem arises suggests a thermally reacted dry joint some where . It appears from what we can ascertain that one of the stepper phases is not working after a while. This could be due to dry joint within the stepper motor or a cable or the stepper driver which I assume is on the main board. time I am afraid to start changing parts. Extruder stepper motor and Mainboard?? but one at a time. Before you do that just check the cable from the stepper to the main board these idc cables can appear fine but mave not been made off fully.
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01-27-2021, 06:36 AM #15
Why is it that every thing has to be re-named as time passes this was called a cracked solder joint or cold solder joint in my time.
Cold solder joints are caused by inadequate cooling to the board over a long period of time.
If you believe dry joint then your choice is simple using a heat gun you need to re-flow the controller.
OR
Visually check the controller for dry joint shown below, then re-solder the connections that need to have solder re-flow.
dry joint .jpg
My boss the other day wanted me to check his soldering jokingly knowing he wanted me to re-flow the connections I told him they looked fine to me.
I could barely contain myself when seeing what the soldering connections looked like none of which would have passed my QC soldering inspection.
He did not agree with my joking assessment an asked to make it look better he stated we are a business and need to strive for perfection.
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01-27-2021, 07:04 AM #16
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Dodgy joints have been called a lot of things different names in different places Dry joint comes from the days of hand soldering joints and was caused my not getting the joint hot enough that the solder flowed freely and so didn't WET the surface being soldered
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01-27-2021, 12:06 PM #17
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I realized that during the prints that the fan on the right side of the extruder and the one for the mainboard were not running. Is that a problem?
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01-27-2021, 12:36 PM #18
I have been working with electronics most of my life, most of all problems could have been prevented with added cooling or vent fans.
With one exception of cranking your stereo to max volume.
Sorry mean cranking any Electrical/Mechanical equipment to Maximum operating input/output for extended periods of time.
To answer your question Yes cooling helps to extend the life of many Electrical/Mechanical items.
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01-27-2021, 01:16 PM #19
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What percent speed should I be running it at?
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01-27-2021, 03:00 PM #20
Print speed is what each individual 3D Printer / Model to be printed will handle.
Example My 3D Printer having a rigid frame allows me to 3D Print at near melt rates vs pressure advance.
Meaning that I can print as fast as the filament can melt vs pressure advance to adhesion.
In simple terms 12.0mm^3 per sec or 107 (mm/s) now this is printing long walls.
If were to print curvy lines then the speed would be affected.
If these lines were very short an very curvy this again would affect the print Speed.
If a cheaper wobbly frame 3D Printer this would decrease the print speed dramatically.
Guess I can not answer your question there are too many unknown variables at this.
My 3D Norn Emissary print
09-13-2024, 02:28 AM in 3D Printing Gallery