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  1. #2
    Staff Engineer
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    Jul 2016
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    Well you could upgrade from the generic titan direct drive extruder to a dual drive Bondtech extruder and mount it on the frame with a high quality Capricorn tube so you will have even less weight being slung around on X and Y and are grabbing the filament from both sides. Then you could upgrade to a better mainboard chasing the highest operating frequency and I can save you some time there. The best is over $200 and made by Duet. Aside from that the SKR PRO is about the best you can do because it's processor runs at 168mhz. Then you could get some better drivers. The 2208's are nice. They made our printers quiet. the 2226's are better. They support more current. They run cooler. They have stallguard4 which helps prevent skipped steps. We should care about that when we are chasing high printing speeds and pushing our machines to areas where they are prone to skip steps. Also there is the volcano hotend or equivelant for whatever you are running. But a larger melt zone in the hotend will allow for higher print speeds. applying a mains powered silicone heater to the bottom of the heated bed and converting it from 12/24v power to 110/120v can shave whole minutes off of the print time. For example, the TronXY 500 bed is so large at 500x500 with a 24v heater it can take up to 10 minutes just for the bed to heat up before a print starts. This is an extreme case as that is among if not the largest print bed out there right now. But the mains powered silicone heater will heat that bed to 110c in under a minute. So if your bed heats up slow and this takes minutes for your print to start. And your printer otherwise moves pretty quick, then this might be a good change to make your printer print faster. And then there is always running the latest version of Marlin. 2.0.7.3 is the latest as I understand it. Then when you have all the right hardware as best you can get it, and your frame is as rigid as you can get it, then you can head on over to Youtube and start searching for tutorials on tuning for speed and quality. You will find that some find out how fast they can extrude filament and then base all movements off of this speed. And some just tune for no artifacts in the surface of the print which usually takes you in a different direction away from speed. And it is up to you to find whatever happy ground you are looking for. Here is one of these tuning tutorial videos: Remove ringing by tuning acceleration and junction deviation - step by step guide - YouTube . Or you could start with the tuning and identify problems and then change parts as you push them out of their operating speeds. Like upgrade the extruder to dual drive after you find that the single drive keeps digging into the filament from retractions at such high speeds. And change the mainboard only after you have bounced off the limitation of the 8 bit world. This process will save you more money but take longer to achieve real results. Tuning a stock printer for speed will always land you small results as the printer should come pretty well calibrated to it's own hardware. I prefer to make a bunch of changes first to warrant the tuning sessions but that doesn't have to be the way.
    Last edited by AutoWiz; 11-27-2020 at 05:36 AM.

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