Results 11 to 17 of 17
Thread: Is it safe for aquariums?
-
10-27-2013, 02:15 AM #11
- Join Date
- Sep 2013
- Location
- San Diego
- Posts
- 210
Section 3 of the link I posted. Glycol Acrylate Monomer and Hydrocarbon Acrylate Monomer. #1 Phosphine Oxide based Photo initiator and Polydimethylsiloxane modified Fumed Silica.
This is what you are looking for, correct?
-
10-27-2013, 06:35 PM #12
Teruo: No mean to be rude, but we have posted the information Twice on the topic. Go to this page, you'll have all the informations you need : http://makerjuice.com/technical-documents/
-
10-27-2013, 07:34 PM #13
- Join Date
- Oct 2013
- Posts
- 8
Sorry if I sound rude but they are a bit generic in the description Glycol Acrylate Monomer, Hydrocarbon Acrylate Monomer, #1 Phosphine Oxide based Photo initiator.
I don't know which glycol acrylate monomer or which phosphine oxide based photo initiator they are talking about.
I even found a table but I don't know which is the substance that they use.
http://www.eupia.org/uploads/tx_edm/..._Varnishes.pdf
-
10-27-2013, 08:08 PM #14
- Join Date
- Sep 2013
- Location
- San Diego
- Posts
- 210
The guy who makes it can be emailed here: josh@makerjuice.com
Only he can give you the information you seek.
-
10-28-2013, 07:36 AM #15
Teruo : Sound like I did understand you were searching for MORE information that the documents provided. I'm sorry about that.
As Anuvin said. MakerJuice is the one who make the resin. He's also working an another type resin for the Peachy. Change are they will be using the same stuff in it, but in another ratio. Contact him or refer him to this topic, I know he got an account here!
-
10-30-2013, 10:34 AM #16
- Join Date
- Oct 2013
- Posts
- 41
I had a look, and the photoinitiator he uses is 99% likely to be
Phenyl bis(2,4,6-trimethylbenzoyl) phosphine oxide. This itself is stated to not leach into water from the polymerized resin. However when this is hit with light it will fragment into radicals, with some of the byproducts being smaller more water soluble products such as trimethyl benzoyl aldehyde and some phosphite products which may in fact be toxic. I would let it cure in sunlight for a few days at least, and then soak the finished part in dilute bleach for a few days to oxidize any of the really nasty byproducts and possibly soak it in hot water for another few hours to extract out anything not yet leached out of the plastic. That should give you little to no toxic leachates in the aquarium, however there may be a sealant epoxy which is safe that you can brush onto the printed part and cure so that absolutely you will be sure it is safe for use in a living aquarium.
-
10-30-2013, 02:22 PM #17
- Join Date
- Sep 2013
- Location
- San Diego
- Posts
- 210
Fantastic post! I knew you would have some great info for us. Thanks for bringing your experience to the table.
Printing time- Is this right?
09-13-2024, 07:51 AM in General 3D Printing Discussion