Looking for large 3D printer

[curious aardvark]

it looks like the new sapphire.

But basically simplify3d treats it just the same as a normal cartesian printer.
hang on,
try that
unzip the attached file and point s3d at the 'fff' profile.
you'll need to change the print volume settings in the 'g-code' tab.

And maybe change the z axis setting in the 'scripts' ending script section.
I have it set to lower the printbed by 100mm after a print is finished to make it easier to remove a print.
There's no need to change it. If you print something tall and there isn't 100mm left - it will only go to the maximum 'height'.
it should also home the print carriage.
But I've got so many bloody proifiles saved (simplify3d 4.1 crashes if you try and update a profile, but will let me save a new one) I've lost track of which one homes and which one doesn't :-)
Also as the profiles are saved in the computer registry - and not as an actual file unless you export it - deleting profiles you don't want them is bloody difficult.

But as long as you change the print area size - keep all origins at 0 - that should work fine. :-)

There's nothing special about the profile. Thankfully the motherboard and firmware does all the complicated stuff. As far as simplify 3d is concerned it's just a bog standard cartesin printer. S3d has no idea what a corexy is or how it works - and it doesn't need to know :-)

I actually used my i3 profile as the base.

[jeffmorris]

PETG won't stick to glass build platform. I tried painter's tape and PETG won't stick to it. Will PETG stick to glue stick applied to glass build platform? Do I have to buy different kind of build platform? Is the extruder OK or do I have to buy better one?

[curious aardvark]

extruder should be fine.
It's a dual gear bmg isn't it ?
Plenty good grip and push.

Pet-g - I've only ever used Printbite. Where it sticks great.

what settings are you using for pet-g ?
It should stick to painters tape as that is more a mechanical hold than a chemical one.
My biggest issue with tape is getting off the bottom of the print. never had any issues with anything sticking to it.

Pet-g needs to be printed slowly and hot - bed temp 85-100c hotend 235-255 and max printing speed 40mm/s with 10% speed for the first layer.
Also cooling fans off for first 2 layers and 50% for rest.
Though if it's anything like mine - there's nothing I can do with the fans as they stand.
The fans are dual purpose and cool the heatbreak and print area - so on all the time.

Same as my rep-clones - and never caused me any issues.
But in ideal pet-g printing conditions you don't use much cooling.

Also a little extra 'smush' doesn't hurt.
Offset the global offsets for the z axis (bottom left of g-code settings page) by -0.1
If print looks fine and doesn't stick, increase that in increments of 0.1 until it either sticks or the first layer gets wavy and looks like crap - at whicbh point you're too close :-)

A lot depends how finely you calibrated it in the first place.
I tend to calibrate pretty close to the bed as it's really easy to adjust z-offset from the g-code page.

Once I get a new spool mount made I'll try some pet-git on my magigoo.
basically I buggered up the stock print surface so am now using magigoo on the bare aluminium.

It's probably the best print surface material I've ever used - but not as plug and play/one time only buy as the Printbite.
But you can't put a first layer down at 100mm/s on printbite, and I have on the magigoo :-)
https://magigoo.myshopify.com/collec...ive-single-pen

It's not cheap but a really thin layer is all you need and a little goes a really long way.

[jeffmorris]

Raising the temperatures worked BUT there is some warping on a test "box". I should be getting the enclosure and some glue sticks tomorrow. I'll use a Bowden tube as filament guide from the spool to the extruder much like those on Flashforge 3D printers.

[curious aardvark]

Filament guife tube is not necessary, plus adds extra and unnecessary friction.
I made a pretty simple but effective spool holder last night.

As soon as I've got it fitted and checked it does actually work I'll post it.
Basically it mounts the spool on the front left hand corner but 150mm in the air and at a 45 degree angle to the bed. So the filement should pull off smoothly no matter where the printhead is.
Takes a couple hours to print (well the way I print it does - maybe double that for most people lol), no supports and attaches either with two strut nuts or cable ties.

As I can't find all the strut nuts I made last year out of the diamond fust filament - I;ll probably just use cable ties :-)

But the less friction between the spool and the extruder the better - particulatly for flexible filaments which have a tendency to stretch and constrict during retractions.

Probably be this evening, gonna have lunch, go shopping, walk dogs ertc - back in workshop this evening.

I printed mine with some godawful flourescent yellow filament from polymaker. It was supposed to be a premium filament - but it's terrible stuff - won't work in my delta at all.
But all my other part spools with enough filament (68gms) would not fit on the bog standard holder.
So it was what i had.
Gonna needs some sanding and filing. But should do the job well.

Plus need to make a back plate - that won't take long. Maybe another 5 gms.
Although I might just use the 300gsm card I use in the laser cutter.

[curious aardvark]

Here's the thing in situ:

filament holder (Small).jpg

works well - currently printing a 185mm back plate.

I have noticed a small potential issue.
If you had a really full spool, like the BQ filament I like - which is wound right to the edge of the spool. On a long travel back towards the spool there is a risk that the filament can come off the reel and get caught around the shaft that holds the spool.
This is something the replicator clones are notorious for. And one of the main issues I had when I first started printing.

As the spool is on an angled holder so that it can't come off, I can make an extension to the main shaft that should prevent the filament escaping the reel.

Currently printing a 185mm back plate, this goes down the shaft and prevent spools with holes or sutouts from catching on the top of the main shaft.

I'll take some pics without filament when the plate has finished.

But looks like this will do the job without my having to build something huge :-)

A side observation on the corexy system.
when the print head goes left - both belts go right. when it goes right, both belts go left. When it travels in a doagonal only one belt moves. When it goed forwards or backwards both belts move in opposite directions.

It's fascinating to watch - almost as hypnotiic as watching a delta print at speed.

How on earth did someone work this out ?
I'm now going to have to find out who invented the system.

Around 2013, a new motion system was developed by an MIT engineer. It became known as the CoreXY.

so now you know :-)

[curious aardvark]

oh yeah - if you're using that profile - check on the scripts tab that the homeing line in the ending script reads:
G28 X Y
NOT:
G28 XY
As that will home all three axis - which you don't really want.

[jeffmorris]

I got the enclosure today and I wished that I build an enclosure but my parents and I are stuck at home without a car due to the virus that may kill us all. A tip: put the printer inside the enclosure before building the plastic frame. The short tubes are for front and back, longer tubes are for sides, and longest tubes are vertical. Since the enclosure is for any printers, there are no holes for power cord and USB cable. The spool won't fit inside the enclosure.

[curious aardvark]

is it really worth the hassle ?

[jeffmorris]

I think that it's not worth the hassle. The glue stick doesn't work on PETG. I ordered a Gizmo Dorks PEI sheet and it should come tomorrow.