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Thread: Ender 3 and leveling problem
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10-26-2019, 03:06 PM #11
Oh no. Well I am sorry for the bad advice. I wish I had a more comprehensive amount of experience with different build surfaces but once I got away from the painters tape Gecko Tek is the first I tried and they have worked so well for me I haven't got much real world experience with others to be speaking about. However, you might find some help in the Ultimate Materials Guide from Simplify3d. Right here: https://www.simplify3d.com/support/m...uide/flexible/
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10-26-2019, 03:14 PM #12
- Join Date
- Oct 2019
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- 52
think gone go with the tape then.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Blue-Tape...OXADCl8QZQXNYw
Thank you for your help
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10-30-2019, 05:31 PM #13
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- Oct 2019
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- 52
Finally got my new glass plate delivered so menage to level up the bed to a workable condition.But Still experiencing the problem with the blocked nozzle and a bit inconsistent layers.So I tried to increase nozzle temperature to 210 C and bed to 70C. I did help with the layer inconsistency but still after few layers I'm ending up with a blocked nozzle.Any Ideas where may be the problem? xD I'm using PLA and have upgraded the PTFE tubes with fittings.
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10-30-2019, 06:07 PM #14
Well i think 70c is a bit high for the bed for PLA. I like 50 or 60 with the glass. But that is not your problem. The cheap azz extruder in your ender3 uses a ptfe liner that is sadly sensitive to higher temps and can be deformed and cause these problems. If it were me, I might be trying to entertain some kind of all metal hotend conversion. Maybe something genuinely from E3D. Just so you know you don't have to worry past the installation.
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10-30-2019, 06:25 PM #15
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- Oct 2019
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- 52
Any particular model on your mind?
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10-30-2019, 07:30 PM #16
Micro Swiss makes some nice stuff. Not the cheapest but superb quality. They make a drop in all metal hotend with a titanium heatbreak and a plated wear resistant nozzle. This is drop in replacement in a high quality right here: https://www.amazon.com/Micro-Hotend-...a-568313010230
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10-31-2019, 12:46 AM #17
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- Oct 2019
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- 52
Is there any other way around it? I can't believe have they can even charge money for such a shit printer. Shame that I can't go back in time and buy a proper printer instead of this fake one. Don't know if after gone have other problems involving spending money agin
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10-31-2019, 08:27 AM #18
Wanted to say that I have the Same Hot-end as that on the Ender 3.
I have been 3D Printing PLA and ABS for 3 Years now.
And I will tell you that it is not the Ender 3's Hot-End that is the problem.
Here is a photo of an MPCNC that I 3D Printed in ABS with my Hictop 3DP11/12.
My MPCNC-1.jpg
And here are my Hictop 3D Printers
The Twins 2018-3.jpg
3D Printer before Modifications can be seen here
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10-31-2019, 09:31 AM #19
- Join Date
- Oct 2019
- Posts
- 52
Is it a fake printer then?
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10-31-2019, 11:11 AM #20
FYI in the picture posted I see MK8 extruders. These are not what is on the ender 3. Not even the same type. MK8 in your pictures are direct drive and the ender3 has a Bowden setup. Just saying. I know my extruders well. I have changed so many right here on this forum. So many. apples and oranges. This is why we should go join facebook groups for our specific machine.
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