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Thread: Another Sintratec kit built
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11-17-2016, 11:10 AM #41
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- Nov 2016
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- Lancashire, UK
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- 36
Will just half of one degree make much difference when the temperature fluctuates more than that as new powder is introduced and is never very steady even when doing nothing? At 175C the first layers were better but still not staying flat.
I will have a closer look at the shade - difficult to get at though.Last edited by Mike Francies; 11-17-2016 at 11:17 AM. Reason: Just read post 40
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11-17-2016, 11:32 AM #42
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- Jan 2016
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- 41
When you prepare the print with the software the lights will go on. Use the key to shut down the laser and open the door. I think than will see it and you can play with the position
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11-18-2016, 01:55 AM #43
the chamber temperature does matter. But everthing between 140-150 C is fine. But the surface temperature is much more important, a difference between 1-2 C can make the difference between a failed and a sucssesful print!.
As I already stated your temperature distribution has to be alright before you can get start fine tuning your prints. Here is what you should do:
-Do not use custom settings for starting. For starting use the standart PA12 settings. You can experiment that later. The custom settings are meant for people that exactly know what they are doing.
-As rudschul stated the front sheet of the lamp has to be perfectly aligned with the backside of the powder surface. If its to far, the back will get to hot and the front to cold. If you have h shadown on your print surface your front will get to hot and back to cold. To get an even distribution it has to be aligned perfectly.
- Preheat your printer. about 1.5 hours should be sufficent
- load a calibration print (only one in the middle) and force the printer into powder prep mode
- raise your powder temperature 1 C.
- wait for about 1 min and check the powder.
- raise temperature again
- repeat until you see your powder darken/ get burned
- reduce temp 1.5 C ------> This will be your printing temperature
- if you hit 180 C and the powder does still not get burned check your sensor position / laser glass. Something might not be right.
I strongly discourage from preheat temperatures over 150 C as this will degrade your powder in short and long term! Also you run the risk of overheating! The problem here is when you heat your powder with temps over 150 for a long time it might graded and turn black witch results melting your powder in the build chamber. This will cause serious damage to your printer.
A little fluctuation is normal.
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11-18-2016, 09:57 AM #44
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- Nov 2016
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- Lancashire, UK
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- 36
Success!!
Hi, thanks to Roman and rudschul I am pretty close to optimal settings. I moved the shade back but it is very difficult to see where the shadow is and as I could not see it on the powder, I presumed it was close to the right place. I then followed Roman's procedure to get the powder temperature right. I ended up at 172C but I can notice that the right side of the build area does start darkening before the rest. I think it may be that the IR rays are being reflected off the aluminium of the blade carrier which is parked just at the right edge of the build area. The darkening of the powder was something I had not noticed before and until you actually see it you don't recognise the difference (if that makes sense!). Maybe the importance of the positioning of the shade should be made clear in the instructions - if it was, I missed it!
It was very difficult to alter the temperature accurately with the slider. Can we please have a couple of buttons on each end of the sliders, much like the powder chambers, to give 0.1C and 1.0C changes? Trying to juggle the slider, toggle the 'send to printer' button and then re-opening the calibration window all while the next layer was being put down was not easy! The window should stay open while adjusting the temperature and sending to the printer and then use a 'Close' button to close the window, it should not close just because some values have been sent to the printer.
The measurements are pretty close at 40.03mm in X, 40.31mm in Y and 5.02 in Z. This raises another question. For my previous print I had used the software calculated scaling which has given me these current measurements. When I re-open the scaling my previous values are still there. Do I reset the values to zero when putting the new measurements in or should the old values be left or does it matter. In other words, what values are the new percentages applied to, the ones previously sent to the printer or the original values before the last percentages were applied?
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11-21-2016, 05:55 AM #45
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- Nov 2016
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- Lancashire, UK
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- 36
I am now very happy with how the printer is working and it is producing some good parts. However, these parts are still not quite right dimensionally and this is where I am still confused as to how the software is working. When the 'Calibrate' screen is selected some values from a previous attempt are showing. Should these be reset to zero before calculating the current values?
Also, barely visible next to the Z value it says 'Keep Zero'. Unfortunately I changed this value after the first print because the Z dimension was slightly out but because the 'Keep Zero' message is so feint I missed it. Why are we allowed to change the value if we have to keep it at Zero? How do I now reset this to zero?
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05-13-2018, 02:34 AM #46
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- May 2018
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- 1
Hi mike,
I decide to buy a kit, but i am not sure if I can complete it, can i ask you to email me the kit manual to check the complexity of the kit?
Thanks alot
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05-13-2018, 04:35 AM #47
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- Jan 2016
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- 41
Nice to hear :-)
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05-13-2018, 06:49 AM #48
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- Nov 2016
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- Lancashire, UK
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- 36
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06-06-2019, 04:01 PM #49
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- Apr 2019
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- 3
Hello I am Artur,
my Sintratec kit does not work optimally yet. How exactly do you set this the reflector. Can someone send a photo of his set reflector? Have the left and right lamp off. Then the mitleere adjusted so that it radiates to the edge of the back wall. Is it correct that way? For me in the front of the cake is too tight I can not get the components out.
Thanks for your help. I'm writing with a translator
IMG_9904.jpgIMG_9905.jpgIMG_9907.jpgIMG_9909.jpg
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06-07-2019, 12:37 AM #50
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- Jan 2016
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- 41
Hi,
do not tight strong the reflector. I have tighten the reflector as strong as it it possible to change adjutment with knocking against them. The right position you can only see when the lamps are on. See picture from Mike at this thread (11-17-2016, 05:49 PM )
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