Results 11 to 16 of 16
-
01-24-2019, 01:33 AM #11
- Join Date
- Oct 2018
- Location
- Vancouver
- Posts
- 10
Just realized the stock slicing software has a text file that has documented the g-code and stuff from every print (over 1000 pages). And each print has a line in the end code...
“M140 S0. ;heated bed heater off (if you have it)”
Not sure if this helps
-
02-23-2019, 01:28 PM #12
- Join Date
- Feb 2019
- Posts
- 5
-
03-05-2019, 03:33 AM #13
- Join Date
- Dec 2018
- Posts
- 62
Creality CR-10S Pro heated bed can heat up to its max temperature of 110 degrees Celsius in just 5 minutes. Its output rating is 24V.
-
03-11-2019, 11:49 AM #14
- Join Date
- Mar 2019
- Posts
- 3
looks awesome!
-
03-18-2019, 01:04 AM #15
- Join Date
- Mar 2019
- Posts
- 4
Originally Posted by 3Design
-
05-07-2019, 01:41 AM #16
- Join Date
- May 2019
- Posts
- 1
First of all I want to say thank you for sharing many parts of your struggles that you've been experiencing trying to make this printer useable. Between this post and what I assume is your other post on the RepRap forums (I'd post the link if I had enough posts on this forum), I've had mostly enough to go on in my own modifications. My wife is the principal of a small school in the Vancouver area of which had purchased one of these printers the year before she started working there, and I've been spending the past month trying to make improvements on.
I picked up a sheet of aluminum cut to the same size as the Alupanel that I was going to stick the adhesive of the silicon mat to, but it didn't hit me until tonight that the existing screw holes used for levelling/holding the bed aren't going to work with the size of heating mat I have (200x200). Would you mind sharing the dimensions of your bracket? I'm going to need to implement something similar. I had read somewhere that using 6061 grade aluminum and attaching the mat directly to that would work well at heating the glass uniformly.
I will share some of my pictures and whether or not things work to this same thread in hopes that it might help the next person who comes along with this same printer. I'll also share the configuration changes that I made to the latest Marlin firmware (1.1.9) specific for this printer.
Thanks again for paving the way with this.
Holes and pockmarks in print walls
06-04-2024, 09:14 AM in General 3D Printing Discussion