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Thread: Dollo 3D Printable 3D Printer
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02-10-2019, 12:56 PM #81
- Join Date
- Oct 2016
- Posts
- 184
Received some filament and printed lots of parts in addition to previously printed parts so that the Dollo rebuild can continue. Some of the extensios were quite brittle and I had to scrap them. I think the reason is the printer I printed them with, a Tronxy X5S with E3D lite v6 clone that has quite powerfule part cooling fan. I'm running the cooler at ~30% for PLA at the moment. @ 100% the hot end heater can't keep the hot end heated and filament just doen't stick to previous layer. Probably need to lower the speed bit more...
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Got the frame built during weekend. Ran out of long ties and bow ties, so printing them now so I can get the bed carriage assembled. The frame is actually quite rigid, at least compared to previous builds; the extra stiff versions of the corner parts seem to help. Also probably going to use 8mm metal rods on the beams that hold the rails.
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Updated the rail holder parts a bit, now the slider is threaded and it is fixed to holder with two nuts that also center it. I'm reusing the 520mm rails from the old build so the sliders are bit larger than usual, just for this build:
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02-15-2019, 03:42 AM #82
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- Oct 2016
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- 184
Installed the z-rails, sliders and bed carriage. Carriage moves about somewhat sluggishly but the slides take bit time to wear in, after that they work fine:
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Started printing the X and Y rails. The old ones are ok, but too short and not quite the lastes versions so it would be too much hassle to print pieces that match them so I'm reprinting them all.
For electronics I'm going to go with MKS Sbase for now. Installed Smoothieware yesterday and did basic config, but of course cannot validate it yet since the printer isn't assembled yet. But TFT works and motor turns.
On wiring side I have plans for some custom connectors that I'd like to use to make the wiring cleaner and modular. I did something similar on my Tronxy X5S where all hot-end wiring is terminated near the hot-end, so swapping hot-ends is lot less hassle because all wires have connectors near the hot-end. Currently swapping Volcano end E3D6 on that printer as needed, so I'll be trying to build on that idea.
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02-23-2019, 01:30 PM #83
- Join Date
- Feb 2019
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- 5
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02-24-2019, 03:07 AM #84
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- Oct 2016
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- 184
Ain't got time to make any plans... but here are models: https://github.com/spegelius/Dollo
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02-24-2019, 08:22 AM #85
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- Oct 2016
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- 184
X and Y racks printed and assembled. Yellow REAL PETG, printed with Prusa MK2.5. Turned out quite nice.
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Started assembling Z-axis.
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02-27-2019, 01:28 PM #86
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- Oct 2016
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- 184
All axes are now assembled. I took some extra time with X and Y mounts, now the motor is positioned very tightly towards the rack. Even so that the movement feels quite rough when the gear moves on the rack. Probably shows as artifacts on prints, at least at first, probably wears during use.
Reinforced X and Y axes with 8mm threaded rods so no drooping should happen, although Dollo.2 build has been quite rigid.
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Made an enclosure for the MKS Sbase. Used the model that comes with the Sbase github files as starting point, modified it to take 80mm fan and other changes. Also made adapters so it attaches to Dollo frame with snap clips.
2019-02-27 19.11.25.jpg 2019-02-27 19.11.40.jpg
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02-27-2019, 01:35 PM #87
- Join Date
- Oct 2016
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- 184
Mounted the Sbase on the frame and tried Z-axis motor and Z endstop. Working fine, however I need to wire Z-motors in series so the movement is smooth on slow speeds. See: https://www.instructables.com/id/Wir...ors-in-Series/. DRV8825 again...
2019-02-27 21.18.16-1.jpg2019-02-27 21.30.19.jpg
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03-11-2019, 08:09 AM #88
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- Oct 2016
- Posts
- 184
Got the motor wires cut to proper length and made connection boxes for the Z and Y wires. To boxes connect the two motors in series and are mounted on the frame.
2019-03-05 20.06.56.jpg 2019-03-05 20.06.59.jpg 2019-03-11 14.25.24.jpg
Also installed X and Y endstops and everything seems to work correctly. For X I probably need to use TL-smoother so the DRV8825 jerkiness won't show on slow speeds. For Y and Z that isn't a problem because they are wired in series.
2019-03-11 14.25.43.jpg
There's also hotend mounted, but I need to reprint the part cooler shroud and the mount. Not sure what PSU to use, I have 24V brick that I could use for all other except the bed as it's only ~100W. but all fans and hot end is 12V so I'd need to either replace those or use diodes or something to lower the voltage. Hot end should be usable as long as Smoothieware allows for limiting the heating power.
For I'm going to use the old 21cm bed for now. Need to print mounts for it.
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03-18-2019, 01:05 AM #89
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- Mar 2019
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- 4
all my prob solved
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03-18-2019, 02:26 AM #90
- Join Date
- Jan 2019
- Posts
- 4
This is a good option.
Ender 3v2 poor printing quality
10-28-2024, 09:08 AM in Tips, Tricks and Tech Help