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Thread: Choosing my first Delta Printer
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09-07-2017, 10:51 PM #41
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Okay just tried to use 3 Point, and it only goes to the first point and stops there. here is the whole marlin 1.1.5 https://www.dropbox.com/s/oac2zq740d...point.zip?dl=0
and the configuration.h
https://www.dropbox.com/s/psqwaxpqvs...uration.h?dl=0
Like I said, really holding my patience, giving this thing until end of this week. If not, just either gonna leave it, or spend the extra money and hire someone to do it LOL and work on the Hypercube Evolution instead.
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09-08-2017, 12:16 AM #42
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Oh no I know how to calculate that, it's just that the funny thing is even though it should be +y, when I do G1 Y-35, The nozzle tips moves from x0 y0 to exactly where the probe is. Hmm weird, I'm hearing conflicting opinions, there are people telling me that G33 is better than G29.
EDIT: Y-35 not X-35Last edited by iamthebest22; 09-08-2017 at 12:42 AM.
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09-08-2017, 06:49 AM #43
And you wonder why I've never bothered to get into this aspect of levelling :-)
If it doesn't have bed capable of being levelled manually and auto levelling isn't actually in any way shape or form automatic - avoid it lol
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09-08-2017, 08:58 AM #44
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Yeah you got that right, well at least I still have the He3D that you told me to get. I'm posting on both the facebook group and Marlin group to get help and see if they can figure it out. There is a way to manually level the bed for the Anycubic, just have to 3d print it, which I may try. as a last resort. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2252569
EDIT: Should I just try that manually leveling 3d printed instead of keep trying to solve the ABL issues? I'm just waiting for my PETG to arrive, was gonna use ABS as it apparently have higher heat resistance, but apparently since I don't really print ABS, only PLA or PETG or flex or wood, don't need that high temp and PETG (which is around 80 c heat resistance is more than enough.Last edited by iamthebest22; 09-08-2017 at 09:12 AM.
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09-08-2017, 10:14 AM #45
pet-g has HIGHER heat resistance than abs. And prints pretty easy.
You did get the heated bed for the k200 ? Otherwise you're just as stuffed as with the anycubic :-)
I use my z-stop switch adaptor and a screwdriver to level the bed. That and minor z adjustment in simplify3d - works and is really simple.
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09-08-2017, 08:45 PM #46
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I think there's something wrong with my printer itself, even after both G33 calibrations and G29 using UBL and activated, the nozzle is still hitting the bed on one end and way higher on the other end.
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09-08-2017, 10:20 PM #47
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How do you clear the eeprom, isn't it M502?
Yes, G1 Y-35 move the nozzle tip between the X and Y tower, but to where the probe tip was exactly.
I did something similar to what you did with the G92 and G30 ish before I moved onto G33 P1, and the results were pretty much the same. -2.4 is a good one.
I think the most important part right now is to definitely try to clear the eeprom, I thought M502 is to clear it but maybe not?
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09-08-2017, 10:32 PM #48
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Oh no the X tower is at the back, the Y tower is on the left while the Z tower is on the right. that is if you look at this video: https://www.dropbox.com/s/ywsuba9kxn...19.34.mp4?dl=0
So M502 is clearing the eeprom, I do that everytime I flash the firmware. maybe printing those manual knobs really is the only way to go...
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09-08-2017, 11:12 PM #49
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Oh you're talking about the G29 using 3 point. I set the points properly, but then it move to the first point, doesn't even probe it and just stops. Right now trying out UBL but it didn't work either. Here is the weird thing. Here is what the mesh said after the G29 UBL (Unified Bed Leveling):
17:13:10.568 : . . . 1.694 0.402 0.219 0.327 0.720 . . .
17:13:10.568 :
17:13:10.738 : . . 0.524 0.053 0.032 0.099 0.094 0.190 0.334 . .
17:13:10.738 :
17:13:10.909 : . 0.120 0.001 0.010 0.012 0.010 0.062 0.080 0.062 0.108 .
17:13:10.909 :
17:13:11.079 : . -0.003 -0.002 0.034 0.035 0.013 0.035 0.010 -0.036 -0.036 .
17:13:11.080 :
17:13:11.277 : 0.081 0.025 0.034 0.036 0.075 0.007 -0.015 -0.015 [-0.015] .
17:13:11.277 :
17:13:11.447 : . 0.140 0.109 0.061 0.082 0.095 0.059 0.035 0.058 -0.010 .
17:13:11.447 :
17:13:11.618 : . 0.179 0.119 0.075 0.077 0.061 0.073 0.086 0.067 -0.007 .
17:13:11.618 :
17:13:11.789 : . . 0.100 0.054 0.060 0.045 0.168 0.115 0.067 . .
17:13:11.789 :
17:13:11.959 : . . . . . -0.018 . . . . .
17:13:11.983 : (-114,-114)
Something is wrong on the top left of the bed, a whole 1mm difference?
I know I'm asking this again, but maybe I should print out those manual leveling knobs and try to level that way?
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09-09-2017, 12:19 AM #50
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Oh and see if they are 90 degrees? No need, I can tell you right now they are NOT, do they need to be? guess if I'm going to do leveling knobs they shouldbe, since ABL/UBL isn't working for some reason on that.
Ender 3v2 poor printing quality
10-28-2024, 09:08 AM in Tips, Tricks and Tech Help