Looking for my first 3D printer

[1-3-2-4]

I have a few items off thinger I want to try but later on I want to try something of my own the thing is it has to have a large hotbed at least 200 mm to 200 mm the item I'm looking to print would at least one of them for the car so it's best to use ABS which I understand is harder to use due to things warping?

What's a good one to use for say $400 and under?

[BoozeKashi]

Anet A8 is popular right now. Tevo Tarantula too, but has a bit more of a learning curve.

The Creality CR-10 if you catch the right sale is in that price range (Check "Press RESET" on YouTube for codes), it has an even larger build volume, good ratings, and goes together quickly. It has heated bed so can print PLA & ABS, but if you are doing a lot of ABS you will probably want to build an enclosure for it.

[1-3-2-4]

How is the Anet A8? How about the Monoprice Maker Select 3d Printer V2?

[1-3-2-4]

Ok I ordered the Anet A8 however I'm looking at auto level sensors and some of them are bare 3 wire and some have the harness connector on it already which one should I get?

[BoozeKashi]

Join the Anet A8 facebook group for the best and most up to date advice. If you are good at soldering either sensor would be okay, but if the price difference is not that much, make life a bit easier and just get the one with the connector already on.

[1-3-2-4]

I own a 60w soldering station so I think I can handle that I was just unsure what the connector was. It says it comes with some ABS filament but not sure how much I assume not much. I wonder how much a 1kg spoil lasts for? I will join that Facebook group

[curious aardvark]

for cars you'd be better off with pet-g than abs. Much easier to print with and higher glass point.

How long does 1 kg last ?
That depends entirely on how you slice it. A large model with say 3 layers and shells and 10% infill might only weigh a 100gms.
The same thing with higher infill and moere shells could weigh 200, 300 etc.
As long as you're sensible with your slicer settings a kg can go a very long way indeed. And with reasonable shell thickness and low infill. Items are still surprisingly strong.

I'd have gone for tjhe monoprice (wanhao duplicator i3)
Having just started my first kit build - I'm bloody glad it's not my first printer. :-)

I would always recommend you buy a ready built and tested machine for the first printer.

[1-3-2-4]

PETg is better in what way? I did a little searching and did not find too much on heat before warp or things like that.

Nothing wrong with a little bit of DIY kit assembling.

[BoozeKashi]

PETG is just a bit easier to print with once you get settings dialed in. It isn't so cool-down sensitive and prone to warping as ABS, and doesn't have that 'breathing this shit will kill you' smell while it is printing. It also doesn't continue to outgas long after printing. PETG has good strength and flexibility and slightly better heat resistance, which is why I suspect CA told you it is better for printing things in the car.

I tend to agree with CA as well, for a first printer [for most people] it is better to get something that works and learn the basics of printing. Then use that knowledge to dive into a kit or a full-on DIY build. There are always exceptions, but most people are better off learning to drive a car first before attempting to build their first one from scratch.

[Davo]

Good advice here. Pay attention.