Results 11 to 18 of 18
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02-09-2017, 09:38 AM #11
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- Jan 2017
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- 45
I have not, but I have heard of it. I will look into Cura and maybe try it out on a print or two.
Thanks,
Justin
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02-09-2017, 09:52 AM #12
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02-09-2017, 10:08 AM #13
Well all I can say is that I've always calibrated with both bed and nozzle heated - which is what it says to do in the flashforge instructions. And it works.
I believe it's also what geoff recommends.
When i say always, I mean after getting the machine and spending a week getting it working - I think heating both bed and nozzle when calibrating was the breakthrough in a somewhat frustrating week. was 3 years ago, and it's how I've calibrated ever since :-)
Justin, flashprint is actually quite good and does allow you to set the speed of the first layer.
Load model, then click the print button - you need to have expert settings selected:
You need to view the image full size - because of these bloody adverts the forum shrinks everything, including the pics.
you want first layer maximum speed.
For abs I'd probably go for 10mm/s or lower. (well i wouldn't as I don't like that stuff - but you know what i mean :-)
I also like to keep my travel and print speeds the same. As it stops artifacts caused by sudden speed changes and acceleration.Last edited by curious aardvark; 02-09-2017 at 10:13 AM.
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02-09-2017, 10:27 AM #14
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- Jan 2017
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- 45
Ah, I didn't recognize that there was an expert mode. That will help out greatly in tweaking some settings that could allow for better prints. Thanks for making me aware of that.
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02-09-2017, 10:47 AM #15
Only the bed being heated affects bed "leveling". As it heats it expands and this tweaks/twists the platform. The nozzle being heated just affects start gap which you want to be net zero after everything is heated. There is no way to get the nozzle gap set with a feeler gauge or paper with it heated since there will be no gap left. You will be left with too big of start gap.
On top of the unsafe situation, when the nozzle is hot it will also be drooling filament.
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02-09-2017, 11:21 AM #16
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- Jan 2017
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Makes sense.
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02-10-2017, 10:53 AM #17
well sort of. I did say to remove filament before levelling :-0)
And I do calibrate very tightly. 90gsm paper, that barely slides between the nozzle and bed.
All i know is it works. I also adjust the z gap from the slicer - simplify3d has a setting in the g-code tab that lets you adjust the z gap.
Since this was pointed out to me, I use it a lot. Some filaments need a little more smooshing than others, and I can adjust this in the slicer.
The only times I ever need to level the bed is if I've tried an experimental filament that needs a higher bed temp.
So far with printbite, I've got everything to stick at either 60 or 70c - and the 10c difference doesn't seem to make any difference as far as calibration goes.
Like I say, it's how I do it and it does work.
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02-10-2017, 04:36 PM #18
My 3D Norn Emissary print
09-13-2024, 02:28 AM in 3D Printing Gallery