Results 61 to 68 of 68
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04-10-2016, 06:23 PM #61
- Join Date
- Apr 2016
- Posts
- 3
Here's a little about what I have going on. A few months back I bought a 2-up 3d printer kit and put it together knowing that I wanted to be able to print on a much larger scale. Before producing a completed successful print (extrusion problems) I made the decision to build something that would satisfy my desire to go bigger and at the same time give me a more reliable platform.
I upped the size of the 'z' and 'y' motors to nema 23's and have micro switches for both ends of each axis. I got a couple of bowden extruders and an ep3 chimera hot end.
It took a bit but I have reached the point where I'm starting into control check-out. Using the ramps board (from the original 2-up) I turned the pots down on the drivers and powered up the board. I was able to control 'z' fairly well though it needs some mechanical tweeking, but have not got anything out of the other 2 axis yet. What I've been able to find about tuning the drivers (drivers rated at 2 amps and the 23's are rated 2.8 per coil) leaves me hesitant and wanting to reach out before I let the smoke out of something. (This part of the process is what I have the most to learn about.) It looks like my useful build-space when complete will be 24"x 22"x 13.5". I'll post a pic in the not to distant future.
Looking for suggestions to best proceed.
Ed
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04-20-2016, 02:22 AM #62
- Join Date
- Apr 2016
- Posts
- 30
Hello hello people. My name is William. I recently acquired a Makerfarm i3v 12" from a friend of mine. Mainly wood frame, with aluminum for the sliders. I believe it's setup with a Wades extruder. Currently has an e3d hot end with a 0.4mm nozzle and prints using 1.75mm filament. I got it knowing everything needed to be calibrated and tweaked. It's got the ramps 1.4 board instead of the Rumba(i have that one too)
My issue at hand, and I'll drop a not in the proper area, is, getting the Z axis setup properly. It's got a servo and microswitch for the ABL and, the marlin 1.0.3 firmware is saying the z-offset is 2.6 . when I print using something like Slic3r, it prints pretty close to correct, as far as starting height. Using Simplify3d, it's all kinds of wrong.
Off to do some research!
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04-27-2016, 08:18 AM #63
- Join Date
- Apr 2016
- Posts
- 1
Hello RepRap users! I would say I'm pretty new to the RepRap world but I've learned a ton since I first started this month. I'm currently running the Prusa i3 Rework.
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06-22-2016, 11:50 PM #64
- Join Date
- Jun 2016
- Posts
- 4
Hi there,
I recently bought a Monoprice i3 clone of a clone (based on the Wanhao i3) as my first foray into the world of 3d printing. I had seen powder bed 3d printing at design school, but have never been hands on with the CNC process only modeling in CAD and seeing the results. I am of course very excited about my new machine. It seems to print up to if not exceeding my expectations out of the box. The Monoprice i3 v2 model has some issues however, and I have all my noob misconceptions about 3d FDM printing to dispel. Hopefully you all can help me modify the cheap out of this cheap printer and improve my prints :o)
I have some machining experience, and a machinist square thankfully! So I was able to find the things the assembly line for Monoprice did wrong after only a short time. The Y Belt was all out of alignment, they installed a Nyloc nut between the brace and the roller guide as well as installed the toothed gear on the step motor backwards. Measuring from the left side frame I evened that all out, spun the bearing shafts a tiny bit, and loosened and squared the front belt bracket which was attached out of alignment. The motor bracket was slightly bent inwards maybe from running the thing with the belt out of alignment so I shimmed the motor against the back frame to bring the shaft square. The firmware had the acceleration maxed causing bad vibration waves on direction changes while printing, I set the y axis accel to 700 and x to 800 so far in tuning that, it has helped the y axis wave patterns at the start of corners a bit, with more tuning needed. I have ghosting on holes in vertical walls and am tuning for that as well.
I've had the machine 4 days, could not be happier with it even though it needs a disassembly and alignment out of the box, which I did not know when I opened the box. I guess I didn't really know much of anything about what I was getting into when I ordered it but this thing is making me smile. Currently printing Z braces and other random stuff while I establish some profiles for the machine for different types of parts (structural load bearing, best surface detail, etc).
Thanks for the forum, thanks for the posts, have a nice day!
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01-06-2017, 11:13 PM #65
- Join Date
- Jan 2017
- Location
- Dallas, TX
- Posts
- 2
New member here. Just ordered a Prusa i3 based kit. I already own a Malyan M200. Just waiting on the slow boat from China to bring me my new printer kit.
Came here looking for info and support for assembly and tweaks for the Prusa.
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01-17-2017, 03:46 AM #66
- Join Date
- Jan 2017
- Posts
- 12
New fella to the scene. Build my first hictop prusa i3 3dp-11 with z-axis autolevel.
Havent had it working but once only.
Came here for find help for firmware(I have no save on LCD) and tips how to get it righthly calibrated before first use.
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12-10-2021, 05:16 PM #67
- Join Date
- Dec 2021
- Posts
- 3
Hi
hello all, hoping ill be able to find some insite into some issues I'm having with a new to me printer, thanks!
Last edited by kb3kyx; 12-14-2021 at 04:34 PM.
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12-14-2021, 04:32 AM #68
I've been playing video games for as long as I can remember. I love to play all sorts of different games and genres, though my favorites are RPGs and MMOs. My favorite game is The Legend of Zelda: Breath of the Wild! Moreover, I also like to write blogs on Health tips and gaming. I wrote many blogs for many websites.
Ender 3v2 poor printing quality
10-28-2024, 09:08 AM in Tips, Tricks and Tech Help