If you did go with a SSR you should really consider setting it up like an 8" heater hooked directly to the onboard FET with PID control. I changed over from a relay because with Bang-Bang I was get poor regulation of temp and on 0.1 mm layers there was enough glass warp to make the tip drag on occasion. Also with a translucent PLA I'd get slight changes in color on the first couple of layers as it heated and cooled leaving sort of diagonal stripes although they don't really show on the finished print. I did however visually illustrate the wide variance in temperature compared to PID control. It works a lot better now with the SSR and PID enabled and AutoPID run for the bed.