Explanation for different options under settings menu

[Elpulpo]

Couple of thoughts, guys...

I'm pretty sure you don't need to have a hot nozzle and bed for levelling. That really just makes a fiddly job more fiddly. Of course, there's thermal expansion to consider but you're making sure your bed is level. Not setting your first-layer height. I usually level cold-ish - Don't really worry too much about the temperature but then run a print with a nice long perimeter and adjust each of the screws equally by very small increments* until I get the right bead appearance and the same width of bead across the whole plate. Works for me and no burned fingers. :-)

* Small increments: M3 thread pitch is 0.6mm, so every time you screw your wing nut one complete revolution, that's 0.6mm. So 100uM ( 0.1mm ) is 60 degrees, or about 5mm for one tip of your wing nut to go round. 1mm is equivalent to about 20uM. Just do it a touch at a time and it'll work fine. The process of changing the screws by minute increments while you watch the bead change will allow you to "become one" with your printer. :-)

Removing the BuildTak mat: DO IT COLD!! Whatever you do, make sure your build plate is stone cold, or else the BuildTak surface will come off and leave the adhesive! If this happens to you, as it did with me, Isopropyl Alcohol will dissolve it but there's loads of it and by the time you've finished, you'll have used half a pint and be feeling just a tad light-headed from the fumes! Added to that, you'll use another half pint cleaning the sticky gak off your hands.

Next time I brace myself to replace my BuildTak surface, I'll peel one of the side edges up maybe half an inch and bend it over itself, then find something to wind it onto, as it peels away from the plate. Does that make sense? No? Think sardine tin. :-) Not sure if it'll work but it's gotta be better than sticky gak fingers and woozy head.

Cheers,

AndyL