Help!

[Tom_nerd]

I just got a 3d printer for Christmas and set it up as the instructions asked but when I went to remove the print it was incredibly hard. I eventually managed it after a few minutes of shouting. but when I did the first layer had remained stuck to the print bed. I have 2 questions:

1. what did I do wrong for this to happen

2. what can I do to get the first layer off the print bed.

Link to picture of print bed: https://drive.google.com/file/d/10Lt...ew?usp=sharing



thanks in advance,
Tom. :-)

[fred_dot_u]

A lot of missing information is required for someone to be of assistance. Bed temperature, nozzle temperature, printing material, any adhesive used.
One method that has worked for me in the past for these difficult jobs is to bring the bed up to temperature manually and apply with an eye dropper or similar a 50-50 mix of denatured alcohol and water. Let the bed cool. It may be necessary to apply a substantial amount, to encircle the print, ensuring that it gets under the edges. As the bed cools, the substance will evaporate. Heat the bed and apply as many times as needed to pry the part loose. Check if you can pop it free after each application, don't wait for it to evaporate. I've posted this answer in another forum and the response from the OP was that it worked well.

[AutoWiz]

My take on that is the nozzle is too close to the bed for the first layer. Less squish will directly translate into an easier release. I would add .1mm to the z offset and reprint. then add 0.1mm and reprint and then play with 0.05mm increments until you find the happy spot for your machine where the print stays for the print but releases without problems. As for cleaning that build surface a new or otherwise fresh metal paint scraper with a good edge on it should clean that mess right up. What kind of printer is that?

[curious aardvark]

As for removing the part.
heat the bed to about 80c and use a VERY thin metal tool - I use wallpaper scrapers that I've sanded the edges smooth.
Get the really really cheap ones from pound or buck stores. The thinner and cheaper the better :-)
And use a sanding block to remave the sharp edges, otherwise the can easily gouge the print bed surface.

and work it under one corner, once you've got any part of the stuck print lifted the rest is always much easier to peel off.

what printer do you have ?

[Tom_nerd]

A lot of missing information is required for someone to be of assistance. Bed temperature, nozzle temperature, printing material, any adhesive used.

I set the bed temperature to 50 degrees the nozzle temperature to 210 degrees. I was using PLA and did not use any adhesive.

[Tom_nerd]

what printer do you have ?

the TRONXY XY-2 pro

[fred_dot_u]

Those are all good numbers/data and I'll stand by my suggestion, and support the others' as well. The suggestion about too close to the bed is definitely valid and should be examined before the next print.

Is the bed surface a BuildTak clone?

I set the bed temperature to 50 degrees the nozzle temperature to 210 degrees. I was using PLA and did not use any adhesive.

[AutoWiz]

the TRONXY XY-2 pro

Find a new build surface from a different manufacturer. The tronXY build surface is well known for being what it is.

[Tom_nerd]

Find a new build surface from a different manufacturer. The tronXY build surface is well known for being what it is.

this might be a bit of a stupid question. But is it possible that a build surface would not be compatible?

[fred_dot_u]

It would not be so much that it is not compatible as more likely it's lower quality than one might prefer. Attack the nozzle height consideration before spending money on replacing components, but that's just my opinion.