Prusa i3v 10" - adjust height after a few prints.

[usarmyaircav]

Another thought too could be your environment. Are you setting the Z height with the bed and hot end at temp? I had done it cold, printed once or twice, and then the next time the gap between the hotend and bed was visable. Adjusted hot, and it seems better but I am still keeping an eye on it. I have the older 10", so I have to manually adjust the endstop, until I can print out the parts for a micro adjustable setup.

[printbus]

One more possibility - do you have the switch strapped to the wood bracket with zip ties? If so, that could be letting the switch move just a bit, messing up repeatability. I used M2.5x12 screws and nuts instead of the zip ties, using a 3/16-inch drill bit to cut a countersink hole into the wood bracket for the screw head.

[bitchin86]

i put some thin ca glue on the threads and screw in halfway in and let it dry, then twist it back out a little and set it. this makes it harder to turn but when its set i dont normaly turn it so no big deal.

[jumi1174]

Been meaning to respond back.

@usarmyaircav: I do home and level the bed when both bed and hot end are at preheat ABS temp.

@printbus: I'm not sure I'm understanding what you're saying, but here's a picture of the set-up:


Thoughts?

[printbus]

@printbus: I'm not sure I'm understanding what you're saying...

My point is that I don't like the Makerfarm approach of using the white plastic zip tie to attach the switch. Unless the zip tie is very snug and tight, the switch might be moving around a bit on the bracket, leading to repeatability issues. On the back side of the switch mounting bracket, the zip ties are also going to keep the bracket from being flush to the aluminum rail - that's less of an issue, but still not a great approach. You end up with a more solid switch mount if the zip tie is replaced with two M2.5 screws, with the heads countersunk into the rear side of the wood bracket.