One thing to say, a delta printer lends itself to keep most of the electronics and motors out of the heated chamber. If your not using a bowden setup your most likely moving too much weight around to reach any reasonable speed, even if you have large motors, the larger mass your swinging around will either wear components to slack or induce flexing on the arms. The whole point of delta is to have a light mass and move it quick.

Keep the nema17's out of the chamber and attach heat sink to them. Keep the extruder out and do the same, insulate the rest of the parts and construct the heated chamber. I am working on something similar myself.

One more thing I wanted to say, I assume your going to be printing in ABS/Nylon, I currently print with no cooling on my printer in ABS. It simply does not need it, when going heated chamber I will be evaluating the need to cool the hot end, however I would steer away from water cooling. If you fatigue a tube to the point where it reaches breakage you will seriously cause issues. Most silicone tubing that would be used to water cool will be porous and will become a maintenance item, also these cheapo pumps are not designed to longevity most 3d printers have 100's of hours of work time, do you trust a ~15usd pump to last more than 100 hours? I used a pump that had a floating impeller with a jewel on the end when I was watercooling pc's. Those get expensive quick. Water cooling anything properly requires good quality components, and those are not cheap nor light.

If you insist on water cooling get a mcp355 pump and a single 120mm rad and matching fan. It will be plenty to cool the hot end as well as anything and everything you put on your printer. A single 120mm rad can dissipate 1600W of heat easily before it becomes heat soaked, not 600w, in pc's the fight is to get the parts closer to room temp, in your case the parts do not need to get there and the hotter the rads run the more efficient they get.