PLA Troubles

[NEM]

Hi everyone, I just bought my first 3D printer and it's awesome. It's a PowerSpec 3D Pro dual extruder from Microcenter. I'm using ReplicatorG for printing and Skeinforge for slicing/gcode generation.

Having said that, I'm having some challenges printing with PLA filament. Take a look at the photos below to see what I'm talking about. This is all from a single print job, but it's pretty consistent with what I've been getting. I've adjusted print bed temp (anywhere from 50 - 75 C), hot end temp (from 165 - 185 deg), feed rate (from 33 - 60 mm/s), all without being able to get a clean print from top to bottom. I get the curling corners regardless of what my print settings are, with a raft or without.

Oh yeah, I'm printing on the Kapton tape that came with the printer.

I'm actually going back and leveling my print bed again just to cross that off the list. Thanks for your help!

IMG_20141207_133708418.jpg IMG_20141207_133653489.jpg IMG_20141207_133631623.jpg IMG_20141207_133620114.jpg

[mikenmel08]

I would definatly check the bed level again.....And all the PLA i print on my Dreamer likes to be around 200c

[NEM]

Thanks. Checked the bed level and I think I've got it as close as I'm going to get at this point in time. I've got a test indicator on the way, so I'll be able to satisfy myself as to bed levelness once that shows up.

I've run several more test prints, tried printing nozzle temp all the way up to 220C in 5 degree increments, not getting much better results. I've been watching very closely and killing the print if I start to see it go awry. I noticed on one job that the raft that was printed wasn't lining up with the edges of the printed model, so the edges curled a little as they didn't have a good foundation to adhere to. I've eliminated the raft and found a good bed temperature to get the PLA to stick and it looks like my first layer isn't coming out looking very clean.

I'm running one last test print for the evening, some single layer calibration stuff. I'll post pictures when it's done.

I'm thinking that there's a basic printer calibration issue here.

[NEM]

So here's a single layer print. I got distracted while doing this (ooh, shiny object!) and forgot to post the update that I promised. I've got two primary areas of concern - one is the obvious circle on the right side of the print, the other is the area in the center of the left half that looks sloppy.

The right side issue is because there are holes in my print bed where it is bolted to the PCB. The Kapton tape overlays them, but there is an air pocket between the tape and bolt head. Clearly not a good spot to print. I'm going to avoid printing on those in the future. Any suggestions on adding a PLA usable build plate on top of a heated bed? Add a layer of glass with some binder clips maybe?

As for the left half of the print, any ideas? I'll check my last saved g-code to see what temp it ran at. Not at home now, so I'll check that later.

IMG_20141207_173341515_HDR.jpg

[quirkyfunny]

Have you tried using blue painters tape? It covers the hole area fairly well and results turn out pretty good. For printer settings, PLA seems to like the HBP at 45 deg C and the hot end at 200 deg C (adjust as required). Also, try leveling your bed at the temperature you are planning to use. I finally got good results once I did all of the above.

[Bobbler]

My plan for dealing with that screwhole is next time I replace the Kapton tape I am going to fill it with Sugru and level it out with my putty knife. Its annoying when you are printing without rafts thats for sure!
At least Sugru or similar will be removable if you need access to the bolt beneath at a later date and should be stable temperature wise for the bed heat.

[Ghosty]

Have you tried using blue painters tape? It covers the hole area fairly well and results turn out pretty good. For printer settings, PLA seems to like the HBP at 45 deg C and the hot end at 200 deg C (adjust as required).

blue painters tape (or green frog tape in my case) stuck so hard, it was easier to remove the tape then to pry the model off once done, as for temps, im running my HPB at 64c and nozzle at 195c, im getting good results except overhangs, but im working on that, currently printing a coin tray i designed, ill post the file once im sure it works ok.

[curious aardvark]

for pla use painters tape - just don't heat the bed.
It sticks just as well but is slightly easier to remove.
I never managed to print anything reliably on the kapton.
That said, the otiginal bed isn't flat so I added a flat printbed quite quickly and have used blue tape ever since. I'm going to get another couple of beds and work out a magnetic attachemnt method - at which point I'll start experimenting with different coatings. But at the moment haven't got time to mess about and lots of stuff that needs printing.
For abs I use makerware and a raft.
Pla, makerware or simplify3d and no raft unless it's really tiny or a sphere.


For overhangs - add some active cooling of the print area. Fixes problems and improves prints amazingly.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:537918

[Geoff]

So here's a single layer print. I got distracted while doing this (ooh, shiny object!) and forgot to post the update that I promised. I've got two primary areas of concern - one is the obvious circle on the right side of the print, the other is the area in the center of the left half that looks sloppy.

The right side issue is because there are holes in my print bed where it is bolted to the PCB. The Kapton tape overlays them, but there is an air pocket between the tape and bolt head. Clearly not a good spot to print. I'm going to avoid printing on those in the future. Any suggestions on adding a PLA usable build plate on top of a heated bed? Add a layer of glass with some binder clips maybe?

As for the left half of the print, any ideas? I'll check my last saved g-code to see what temp it ran at. Not at home now, so I'll check that later.

IMG_20141207_173341515_HDR.jpg

Put another layer of Kapton over that one to fix the hole issue, or use Blue tape as suggested, but put it over the kapton.

As for not heating the bed.. mm.. I would actually, I can print cool on my kossel and I3, but for some odd reason my flashforge needs usually 60c or 65c for successful PLA printing otherwise it doesn't stick as well, whether that's due to the more enclosed case who knows, but just a fact of life for me.

[DrUsual]

I would definatly check the bed level again.....And all the PLA i print on my Dreamer likes to be around 200c

Same here, I've been printing on a glass plate on my Dreamer, PLA at 205 and bed at 60, and it's working very consistently.