ABS curling on the ends (10" i3v)

[theAut0]

I'm sure this is a dead horse, but after making some decent prints in PLA, ABS seems to be dreadful. I have yet to make one stick. Specifically on the corners (I know, I said ends. I meant corners). I am using 110 for the bed temp, and 230 for the nozzle, although I've tried as high as 250 nozzle, since that's what came on the download from MakerFarm. Tried spraying the glass with hairspray, which did next-to-nothing, and also tried blue painter's tape, which made it stick for like 10 layers or so, before it gave up.

Any tips on making ABS stick? I'll try to find acetone to make some ABS juice. In the meantime, I had some things I wanted to print in ABS instead of PLA.

I'd also love to see configs for Slic3r and/or Cura (haven't had success at all in the latter). I'm running a .04 Hexagon. Stock fan shroud.

Thanks again, guys.

[jtice]

I have had pretty good luck so far.
I have a glass bed, 90C, hairspray, and use a Brim of 7, which I think helps alot.

[Roxy]

This problem never goes away. It will always be with you. But there are things you can do to mitigate it.

I was making a Pump Jack for my brother. He just graduated as a Petroleum Engineer from the University of Texas. I had problems with the beams of the main Pump Jack curling up. I punched holes in the beam and that helped a lot. But I finally beat the problem when I cut little stress relief slots into the bottom part of the beams. If you rotate the Pump Jack and look at the bottom of it, what I just said will make sense.

Pump_Jack - All but gears.stl

[JohnA136]

ABS can be problematic on on open printer. PLA sticks great to painter's tape. not so much with ABS. You can print onto glass with an elmers glue stick or onto Kapton Tape with an ABS Slurry. Some people put anchors on the corners to help adhesion? Your temps seem in the ball park.

[AbuMaia]

A brim will help a lot. I also have tossed my hairspray in favour of the Elmer's Glue stick method. I haven't had an ABS part warp on me yet since I've started using it.

[Roxy]

A brim will help a lot. I also have tossed my hairspray in favour of the Elmer's Glue stick method. I haven't had an ABS part warp on me yet since I've started using it.

Hmmmm.... It might be time for me to try the Glue Stick!

[gmay3]

A brim will help a lot. I also have tossed my hairspray in favour of the Elmer's Glue stick method. I haven't had an ABS part warp on me yet since I've started using it.

A tip of the hat to AbuMaia, because I also agree! Using a brim 3-5 mm has helped my nail down my hardest to stick prints.

I'll have to go get one of these elmers glue sticks. Hope I didn't lose my glue stick skills from 2nd grade!

[kfahn]

Just to add my 2 cents, I was also having a lot of trouble with my ABS prints curling on my 10" i3v, but I have found a complete solution (for me). I changed the cooling shroud for my hexagon hot end to clough42's design (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:335613). Not only does this cooling shroud not melt onto the hot end itself like the original design, but it blows the air up and away from the bed. I think that the original design actually blows on the back of the print, causing it to contract.

When printing the large extruder gear, the part of the print at the back of the printer would curl every time. When I switched to the new cooling shroud, the curling stopped completely. If you look at the attached picture, the only difference between the prints was the cooling shroud. The print bed surface, slicing, print settings, and ambient temperature were 100% identical from one print to the other. Notice the curling to the left (which was pointed to the back of the printer). The print on the left was stopped about 2/3 of the way through the print when I noticed all of the curling.
IMG_1766.jpg

If you are still having issues with print curling, it is absolutely worth it to try printing this new shroud and buying the couple dollar fan. I can print in ABS now without a brim or raft or anything else. I've tested this with a bunch of designs and have not had a single ABS design curl since switching cooling shrouds.

[orionthunter]

I have found that bumping the bed up to 115 makes a huge difference. I went from everything popping off the bed on its own to having to use a pair of pliers to break it loose.

[theAut0]

Wow, thanks, all! Big response. It looks like I have some experimenting to do. Luckily, I have 2 rolls of ABS to play with. I have PLA making some new Z-endstops, so I can get it a bit more accurate. Also need to get my bed leveling skills up to par, I guess.