Sore fingers, amazement, frustrations and hair spray: First days with my Creator Pro

[Stigern]

Nice looking print there

Just amazing! Didn't know that was possible.

[Serena]

or just use 5% infill and it'll have something to bridge across.
Hollow things are usually things with curves, not usually things with large flat areas.
Also without active cooling you'll get more sag and less bridge.

For the sake of adding a couple grams infill, and a little extra printing time - but getting a perfect model every time. I usually add the infill.
I know I don't need to heat the bed with pla - but making it warm keeps all the variables as samey as possible for consistent results.

That bracelet is totally cool! Wow I will have to try one of those!

The problem is without any infill, it had a hard time bridging the large gaps. In Slic3r, you could bump the number of top layers up to something like 10. Because with what you have right now, another 4 or 5 top layers would have been able to bridge those openings completely.

Thanks to you both on the infill feedback. I figured that was probably it. I tried it again on 20 infill and a little smaller so I could test it quicker and it worked good. Will try it bigger again and make sure.

[Geoff]

That bracelet is totally cool! Wow I will have to try one of those!



Thanks to you both on the infill feedback. I figured that was probably it. I tried it again on 20 infill and a little smaller so I could test it quicker and it worked good. Will try it bigger again and make sure.

Remember if you are using makerware especially, the infill is across the entire model on the build plate.

Example...

lets say you print an entire chess set on one plate, all pieces, in one print and you set it to 10% infill.

It's not going to infill each chess piece at 10%. It is going to fill the entire plate at a 10% ratio, so some pieces will be completely hollow, and some might have infill.. some might have alot, a little, or none.. depending on where they are placed on the bed.

So imagine that chainmail is a chess set, too low infill and you will find some links get none, and some do.

However, if you print 1 single item and set it to %10 infill, that item gets the entire %10 infill. The chainmail I'd be doing at 3 shells, or 50% infill, because at 3 shells it omits the infill because the links are thick enough.

[Serena]

Made one! Thanks for sharing that design Aardvark. That is super fun! This one is ABS. Simpliy3d took less than a minute to slice it- think you said you had that one... it is always pretty quick. I would think that would be a good leveling test print to do too. If I had two I'd feel like Wonder Woman.

Photo Oct 08, 9 18 08 AM.jpg

[curious aardvark]

I'm pretty sure I printed the chainmail with 0% infill and only 2 shells.
Basically there's no piece thick enough to worry about infill.
Could have been 10% though - is there any way of reading an x3g file to tell what the settings are ?

Anyway it was either 10% or 0% infill and 2 shells.
And the links really didn't need breaking. Not like the gear wheel - this was pretty much loose when i peeled it off the bed.

Just reduced the clasp size on the bracelet - and yep - it's looking like a long openscad compile.
Even on my quadcore desktop.
Basically he's got a 10mm slab of plastic before the male tongue of the clasp. As far as I cna see it's just to match the size of the femal component. Which is daft as it gives you a 20mm thick solid bit of unbendy plastic. I've just cut the 10mm block down to 2mm. Which is sufficient for strength and should give the bracelet a bit more flexibility.

It is an amazing thing. Needs to be a bit longer, Presumably i can add more rows.

Just a shame I can't do it in abs. As I could mix the two different thermochromatic filament I've got.
That said I'll probably buy some thermo chromatic pla for the job :-)

[Geoff]

I'm pretty sure I printed the chainmail with 0% infill and only 2 shells.
Basically there's no piece thick enough to worry about infill.
Could have been 10% though - is there any way of reading an x3g file to tell what the settings are ?

Anyway it was either 10% or 0% infill and 2 shells.
And the links really didn't need breaking. Not like the gear wheel - this was pretty much loose when i peeled it off the bed.

Just reduced the clasp size on the bracelet - and yep - it's looking like a long openscad compile.
Even on my quadcore desktop.
Basically he's got a 10mm slab of plastic before the male tongue of the clasp. As far as I cna see it's just to match the size of the femal component. Which is daft as it gives you a 20mm thick solid bit of unbendy plastic. I've just cut the 10mm block down to 2mm. Which is sufficient for strength and should give the bracelet a bit more flexibility.

It is an amazing thing. Needs to be a bit longer, Presumably i can add more rows.

Just a shame I can't do it in abs. As I could mix the two different thermochromatic filament I've got.
That said I'll probably buy some thermo chromatic pla for the job :-)

I think it's parametric isnt it? I am not an openscad man, but from what ive seen you can make an entire suit of this stuff, silver PLA would look kick ass.

The gear wheel.. don't get me started... took me 3 goes before I could print that with a low enough tolerance to actually get the thing to turn.. oh and I finally after all this time managed to print a perfect secret heart box! I got this fluro yellow PLA that is really really good, no curls, no globbling... its just a shame its fluro yellow!
.......................

[curious aardvark]

lol sounds like the same pla I'm using.
Well My first two gear wheels needed electric powered help to get them turning. But worked fine.
Yeah the mail bracelet is parametric - it's just reading the script to work out ho to add rows I'm struggling with. Changing the clasp parts - that I can understand. But all the weird stuff for the chainmail - be years, if ever, before any of that makes sense to me :-)
Arithmetic I can do - but complex maths, just never interested me.

The gearwheel too is an openscad file. Pretty sure you can adjust the gap between gears. There's no reason you couldn't print one with pla that came off the bed freewheeling.

[Geoff]

lol sounds like the same pla I'm using.
Well My first two gear wheels needed electric powered help to get them turning. But worked fine.
Yeah the mail bracelet is parametric - it's just reading the script to work out ho to add rows I'm struggling with. Changing the clasp parts - that I can understand. But all the weird stuff for the chainmail - be years, if ever, before any of that makes sense to me :-)
Arithmetic I can do - but complex maths, just never interested me.

The gearwheel too is an openscad file. Pretty sure you can adjust the gap between gears. There's no reason you couldn't print one with pla that came off the bed freewheeling.

I loaded it into blender, select the gears, move the origin to the centre of the geometry on each gear as a seperate mesh and rescale them at their individual origins by 1mm, that's how I got it working anyway, otherwise the thing would just fuse together.

[curious aardvark]

in abs ? That's impressive.

With or without a raft ?

Once I've tested the new smaller clasp I'll upload that as a mix.
Currently making some bits for my mates workbench :-)
And as I paid for it I really ought to start using simplify3d.

[Serena]

in abs ? That's impressive.

With or without a raft ?

Once I've tested the new smaller clasp I'll upload that as a mix.
Currently making some bits for my mates workbench :-)
And as I paid for it I really ought to start using simplify3d.

no raft. 0 infill. The clasp on one side was a little funky but it still works fine. Yeah I really like Simplify3d. I think it's a really good option for beginners who just want to start with basic settings at first. And it does slice crazy fast and does great break away supports that don't leave any damage.