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09-23-2016, 10:00 PM #1
- Join Date
- Jul 2014
- Location
- Eastern Colorado
- Posts
- 536
Ah. When I disconnected the hotend module from the Toranado extruder while the printer was on, I thought it gave a maxtemp error due to the open circuit. I might have just misread the screen, though.
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09-24-2016, 10:08 AM #2
- Join Date
- Feb 2015
- Posts
- 371
What i have managed to find out is when the fans kick on the temp drops....and continues to drop. If I redirect the fans, the temp comes back up. This happens at all fan speeds.
I was using the new silicone sock but took it off cause it ripped on one of my failed prints. I am going to put on another one to see if that makes any difference. I did run a PID autotune with it on and the fans blowing. Should I run the PID with the fans off and sock off?
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09-23-2016, 09:45 PM #3
- Join Date
- Jul 2014
- Location
- Eastern Colorado
- Posts
- 536
For the mintemp, I'd check your hotend thermistor wires, make sure they're not shorting together.
As for the octoprint, I don't think that's a Marlin problem. Reboot your octoprint (octopi?).
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09-23-2016, 09:51 PM #4
Actually, mintemp would be an open connection. The thermistor resistances go up with colder temperatures. So, assuming no wiring changes were made, maybe there's a configuration problem with the input that is being sampled for that temperature.
EDIT: Here's a resistance vs. temperature plot for the typical EPCOS thermistor...
Last edited by printbus; 09-24-2016 at 10:43 AM.
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09-24-2016, 09:45 AM #5
- Join Date
- Feb 2015
- Posts
- 371
Okay, I am at a loss here! I cannot get anything to print. I first had issues with the ABL probe. Got that solved. Had issues with Octoprint, solved. Now I am am having temp issues.
The most recent print failed and I get the following message on my screen...
heating failed
Printer Halted
Please reset.
I am printing from the SD card. I could actually see the temp on the hot end going down even through the display says it is set at 200. Heats up fine and will hold temps no problem letting it sit at temp for a while. It seems at layer two in the print if goes wonky.
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09-24-2016, 10:03 PM #6
- Join Date
- Feb 2015
- Posts
- 371
Where does one post these issues? I am relatively new to the debugging process. before I used the Bec release with great success. I think it may be a PID issue. As soon as the fan is on and anywhere close to the nozzle the temps drop like a rock without the sock on. I have had issues before with air cooling the nozzle down but the printer could usually keep up and the temp only would drop a few degrees.
I took off the silicone E3D sock heated the nozzle to 210 and then turned on the fan. The temps dropped to below 148 in less than 30 seconds. As soon as the air hit the nozzle it was as if the PID had no idea what to do. With the sock on and the fan set to full the temp drops a little, about 10 degrees or so.
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09-25-2016, 05:08 PM #7
- Join Date
- Jul 2016
- Location
- Pennsylvania, USA
- Posts
- 255
Hi
Yes, it's duplicate info, but it's probably worth posting here.
If you are running the Arduino app that MakerFarm recommends (1.06) on a Mac, the latest OS update to Sierra brakes it. You re-install Java after the update. After that the app simply locks up. The solution is stupid. You delete the app and re-install it. Once you do, all is well again.
Bob
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09-25-2016, 11:21 PM #8
- Join Date
- Jul 2014
- Location
- Eastern Colorado
- Posts
- 536
Just had the bed throw an error again.
Code:Recv: Error:Heating failed, system stopped! Heater_ID: bed Changing monitoring state from 'Printing' to 'Error: Heating failed, system stopped! Heater_ID: bed ' Recv: Error:Printer halted. kill() called!
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09-26-2016, 05:58 AM #9
- Join Date
- Jul 2016
- Location
- Pennsylvania, USA
- Posts
- 255
Hi
That looks like thermal runaway to me. Simply put, it's calling for heat for to long a period of time and deciding the thermistor is not responding. Simple answer is to stretch out the timeout, if you do it in firmware. Putting a solid state relay on my printer was a < $15 decision. With PWM the problem has never occurred. To fix it without new hardware, bumping up your power supply voltage might do the trick. Obviously, each of these approaches has its own drawbacks.
Bob
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09-26-2016, 02:10 PM #10
The Thermal Parameters are (in my opinion) overly tight. The people that wrote the Thermal Protection wanted to make them even tighter! I have mine currently at these numbers, but I think I'm going to have to bump the 20 up to 30.
Code:#if ENABLED(THERMAL_PROTECTION_BED) #define THERMAL_PROTECTION_BED_PERIOD 20 // Seconds #define THERMAL_PROTECTION_BED_HYSTERESIS 2 // Degrees Celsius #define WATCH_BED_TEMP_PERIOD 60 // Seconds #define WATCH_BED_TEMP_INCREASE 2 // Degrees Celsius #endif
Please explain to me how to...
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