Marlin firmware fork for MakerFarm i3v w/ auto bed level & Roxy's enhancements

[printbus]

Were you heating the bed too, or just the hot end?

Do you have a print cooling fan that is set in the slicer to kick in at say, layer 2?

I'm just wondering about a possible thermal runaway situation. The OEM builds from MakerFarm at least up to some point had thermal runaway detection disabled. There was a thread here some months ago where an early adopter of the revamped Marlin started getting thermal runaway errors when he upgraded to it. It turned out that at least as of that build, the default was for thermal runaway detection to be enabled. If I recall, that problem was with the heated bed - it would heat up OK but then in the print the bed temp would drop off just enough and for a long enough period to trip the thermal runaway condition that shuts down the print. I imagine the same thing could happen with the hot end if too much print cooling airflow is applied after the hot end is at temp and the heater can't keep up with it.

EDIT: Reading tsteever's latest post that came in while I was typing, this sounds like a real possibility

[AbuMaia]

I'm just wondering about a possible thermal runaway situation. ... If I recall, that problem was with the heated bed - it would heat up OK but then in the print the bed temp would drop off just enough and for a long enough period to trip the thermal runaway condition that shuts down the print.

I've been having that trouble myself occasionally since I started using RCBugfix. The bed heater seems to stall out, then the print cancels and the printer disconnects from OctoPi. I'm glad to hear it's a known issue, and that there's a workaround.

[Roxy]

I've been having that trouble myself occasionally since I started using RCBugfix. The bed heater seems to stall out, then the print cancels and the printer disconnects from OctoPi. I'm glad to hear it's a known issue, and that there's a workaround.

We are near the end of RC-7. I'm not sure that I remember any thermal issues in RC-7. I do remember some issues in RC-6.

The only thing concerning thermal issues lately is this thread speculating there may be a bug in the way the PID algorithm works:

https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/4881

If you are having problems with your heaters doing the right thing, please let us know!!!

[AbuMaia]

We are near the end of RC-7. I'm not sure that I remember any thermal issues in RC-7. I do remember some issues in RC-6. The only thing concerning thermal issues lately is this thread speculating there may be a bug in the way the PID algorithm works: https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/4881 If you are having problems with your heaters doing the right thing, please let us know!!!

So far my only problems have been with the print bed heater, and I (think I) have it on a bang-bang setup, not PID. I have my bed heater connected through a relay, so I don't think PID or PWM would be a good option. The issue is somewhat rare, though. Maybe only once in 7-8 prints.

[tsteever]

What exactly do those commands do?

I have the eeprom disabled
//#define EEPROM_SETTINGS

[printbus]

FWIW, here is that earlier thread. The thermal runaway part of the thread starts at post #19.

About to try Marlin1.1.0RC4...

[uncle_bob]

Hi

Based on a disaster that happened here over the last few days:

If the fan shroud on the e3d is damaged, it will dump a bunch of air onto the heated block. The PWM will go to 100% and it will struggle to hold temperature on the hot end. It *will* hang out long enough in this state to trigger "thermal runaway" with the stock settings. The problem will be made worse if you have a bum connection in the heater circuit or if the heater cartridge is loose in the block. A loose thermistor mounting screw would do similar things.

Simple check:

Don't try to print anything. Having stuff moving around is confusing.

Fire up the heated bed and make sure the PWM goes into blink mode (LED blinks vs full on, I watch the one on my SSR)
Check the power supply is at 12V or more

Fire up the hot end (heated bed still on) and make sure the LED goes into blink mode for it.
Check the power supply is still at 12V or more

The fans cooling the e3d must be on any time it is on, so they are already running.
Turn on any other fans you have
Watch the PWM and /or temperature
Check the power supply

Somewhere along in there you should find the problem, if not:

Start giggling wires. You likely have a loose / broken connection.

Bob

[tsteever]

Yes, I used the M280 commands to determine to correct angles. Uploaded the changes and then used the m401 and m402 commands to check. I even did a g28 and g29 to confirm. All work well.

The next time I fired up the machine the servo angles are wonky.

Did you compile and uploaded the firmware after changing the servo endpoints?

Try testing with this, making sure the probe ends up where you expect

M401 - deploys the probe
M402 - retracts the probe

[uncle_bob]

......

The next time I fired up the machine the servo angles are wonky.

Hi

Was the machine hot(er) one time than the other? My experience is that some servos are crazy temperature sensitive as well as being a bit drift prone.

Bob

[tsteever]

Man, not sure I should have opened this can of worms. It was working fine before.

I went to check the servo angles and now it won't home. I am getting the following error...

Error:MINTEMP triggered, system stopped! Heater_ID: 0
Error:Printer halted. kill() called!

10 minutes later and i can get it to home but now Octoprint won't connect!
Error: volume.init failed