Makerfarm i3 8" Prusa Printer Tweaks

[beerdart]

We were printing @ 110 for ABS without issues we use foil tape around the edge gap no problem reaching temp. We have drooped the temp to 90 and still no problems sticking using ABS juice,

[old man emu]

Quite simply just use a strip of 12V LEDs:

LED.jpg
and wire them into the extruder fan power supply so they are always illuminated. They cost me $AU3.00 per 5cm strip and have an adhesive backing so they just stick to the frame. I can get them from my local electrical shop similar to Radio Shack. {Edit: Found a strip of these lights in my junk box. I had them on my motorcycle as daytime running lights, so not they can go onto the printer.}

Australia is 240V AC


OME

[RobH2]

I've read about ABS juice a little but have had such good results with Aquanet hairspray that I haven't tried it. The plate is so easy to clean in the sink just hot soapy water. However, 90C is less wear and tear on the heater and uses less power so maybe I'll try it.

How often to you have to "rejuice" it? Also, I like the foil tape idea. That traps "all" the air inside and makes a great dead air space of heat. I'm going to try that too.

Thanks...

[beerdart]

The juice is a one time use where the part is printed but we move the parts around the table to utilize all the space. We coat both side of the glass so there are lots of prints before retreat. We also have three sheets of glass and we prep all when needed. It also leaves a nice shiny face on the part. IMO it sticks twice as good as the aquanet. Tip do not apply to a hot bed..

[RobH2]

I tried the ABS juice and it worked very well. I'll keep trying it. So, you don't have any issues with treating both sides and having the down side stick to the hot bed? I've had issues with just a bit of Aquanet on the bottom of the glass sticking to the hot bed. I'm afraid to try coating both sides with juice. Is it really OK?

[beerdart]

Yes it works great zero melt on the bottom side. ABS melts @ 220c ish and our bed is never over 110c we now print with bed temp 90c as we had our glass crack due to the heat and bed warp in the middle.

[old man emu]

I am going to wire in where my 12V supply wires into the RAMPS board on the bottom left hand corner of this diagram. I am not going to bother with an an/off switch. The LADs can stay on all the time that the printer is powered up.

Arduino Mega Components.jpg

OME

[phr0ze]

The MakerFarm provided Slic3r setting files start at 90 for first layer, then heat to 110 for each additional layer. This is quite opposite from Slic3rs suggested hot then cold.

Did you try the makerfarm settings?

[RobH2]

I'd like to see that when you are finished. Are you going to use DC or AC lights. I'm not sure, is Australia 120V or 220V?

[RobH2]

That sounds like a great mod. I think I'll copy you on this idea.