Thanks for all the tips. After hitting the internet hard for the way others do it. I have come up with my own proven method.
First I made sure I had good materials.
1) Capricorn Tubing - yes it make a big difference.
2) Good nozzles - the one that came on the LK5 pro was not good.
3) Use the spacer method for tensioning the PTFE inside the hot end. Don't use the push-to-connect tube retaining feature to do it.

To get the Bowden tube the right length in the hot end, I assemble the steel tube into the heat-sink, place the spacer into the top end of the heat-sink and thread on the push-to-connect fitting.
Then I insert a piece of Bowden tubing into the bottom of the hot end that would thread into the heater block. Back off the threads of the push-to-connect fitting by two hex flats (1/3 turn or about 0.25 mm).
Trim off the tubing with a good razor blade such that the trimmed end is completely flush with the tube with a nice flat, smooth cut. Now tighten the push-to-connect fitting. Thread the nozzle into the heater block until snug and back off 1/4 turn (about 0.25 mm. Thread the steel tube with heat-sink into the heater block until snug (finger tight). Mount assembly as is to the X-axis mount and heat the block to maximum (250 C in my case). Once at temperature, finish tightening the nozzle. As far as Bowden tubing goes you can use whatever is desired from there on out because the part that matters is installed in the hot end.
This all worked like a champ for me, and if I have to replace tubing again I only need to replace what is in the hot end. (38 mm or so)