MakerFarm 10" i3v build

[printbus]

Very useful details, thank you. I hadn't thought about the other ways the lighting might be useful.

Actually, the need to replace the baseplate for clough42's fan is a big concern I've had. Among other things, I worry that the ABS might heat up and sag.

How is your pot holder/trivet that you mentioned in your build thread working? I think the cardboard I'm using isn't providing enough insulation and this causes the bed temp to drop from 110 to 100 during the start of the printing process (I'm doing ABS right now). I will mention that I did apply Kapton tape the underside of the bed per your idea.

The pot holder thing seems to be working fine, although I unintentionally ended up with a pretty good air gap under the heat bed too. I adjust all four corners of the bed now, and I'll bring the bed down a bit the next time I'm adjusting the Z endstop. 10 degrees seems like a pretty hefty temperature drop. The 10-inch comes with a heat bed relay; I'd probably start by measuring the voltage at the output of the relay and seeing how much it changes when you see the temperature drop. That might at least eliminate concerns that the power supply is dropping or that the wire gauge to the relay is too small.

Seems like a smart move on the kapton under the edges of the heater circuit board. I haven't had things apart enough to install it yet.

[dacb]

I wanted to make a note for anyone who upgrades to the aluminum spiral couplings like I did: you will need to put some foil tape around the lead screw to make it large enough to fit a 5mm coupling. Also, the two different brands of couplers I tried (one from MakerFarm and another random from ebay) obscured the Z end-stop so that it is nearly impossible to adjust. That is remedied by either taking your 5mm hex wrench and cutting 7mm or so off the short leg so that there is room to work behind the coupler or better yet, moving to the screw adjustable end-stop for the 10" from MiniMadRyan.

10 degrees seems like a pretty hefty temperature drop. The 10-inch comes with a heat bed relay; I'd probably start by measuring the voltage at the output of the relay and seeing how much it changes when you see the temperature drop. That might at least eliminate concerns that the power supply is dropping or that the wire gauge to the relay is too small.

Great suggestion. I used two 16 gauge ATX power supply wires into the heat bed relay from the PS. This should be enough for the current the bed draws. For the next print I do, I'll put a voltmeter on the relay and set it up next to the camera. I note that I don't have any temperature drop for PLA when I run the bed at 70. I'm wondering if the extruder fan shroud is blowing air down onto the bed and cooling it faster than it can reheat. Once my working piece of ABS gets a centimeter or more tall or wide enough, the temperature goes back up to 110. I'm using the stock fan shroud model, though I have had to print it as the original melted before I discovered your trick if cutting it out and using Kapton tape.