Show your MODS

[clough42]

I also see a new connection method for the Z Rods to the stepper motors. Is that a standard part for the i3v or a mod? I find that my rubber connections are prone to slipping. They do provide some protection in a head crash as they will release and push off, but as even the lightest lubrication eventually makes its way to the bottom, it discolors in the vinyl tubes, so I know it's there. They aren't as tight as they used to be.

I replaced the vinyl tubing with aluminum Z couplers for the reasons you mentioned. Oil was getting down into the tubes and I figured it would eventually cause a problem. Also, the tubes don't really center the threaded rod up very well, so the Z rods wobble when printing.

The coupler is designed to allow the shaft to flex as it rotates, but it also essentially suspends the weight of the X assembly on an aluminum spring, and it rings as the Z axis turns. They're really designed to be used with ball screws that have thrust bearings in the mounts. I went ahead and slid the threaded rods all the way down so they actually contact the motor shaft, and this stopped the ringing noises.

I'm not worried about a crash, because the nuts will ultimately pop out of the traps, limiting the downward force that can be applied.

[RobH2]

I replaced the vinyl tubing with aluminum Z couplers

Did you make or buy the couplers?

[clough42]

Did you make or buy the couplers?

Bought them on eBay. Just search for "5x5 flexible shaft coupler". There are lots of Chinese sources that ship worldwide and there are lots of local vendors marking them up, but with faster shipping.

[printbus]

...I sheathed everything with TechFlex braided sleeving and dressed the ends with heat shrink tubing and cable ties.

I was going to ask about the sleeves on the cables. Glad you mentioned the name of it. It looks nice.

The braided sleeving is great, but it can be a pain to work with. Unless it is cut with a hot-knife machine, the cut end on many kinds will tend to unravel as you do anything with it. TechFlex is a company name, with a wide range of products. I highly recommend searching specifically for the TechFlex Clean Cut material. It tends to unravel less when cut with just a scissor. I purchased a couple of different sizes from eBay for using in my build. I found the 1/4-inch size especially good at remaining intact.

[clough42]

The braided sleeving is great, but it can be a pain to work with. Unless it is cut with a hot-knife machine, the cut end on many kinds will tend to unravel as you do anything with it. TechFlex is a company name, with a wide range of products. I highly recommend searching specifically for the TechFlex Clean Cut material. It tends to unravel less when cut with just a scissor. I purchased a couple of different sizes from eBay for using in my build. I found the 1/4-inch size especially good at remaining intact.

Good tip. I'll have to try the clean cut.

I've been using the cheap stuff, sold on eBay by seller "furryletters". It can unravel, but I just cut it with scissors and try to be careful with it. I secure the ends with heat shrink and zip ties. Another approach is hot glue lined heat shrink. I've been known to cut a sliver off a hot glue stick and shove it in the heat shrink to help secure the sheathing so it doesn't pull out. Zip ties are easier.

One other tip: the sleeving melts very easily. Be careful when shrinking the tubing. I actually use a hot air solder rework station, which is way overkill, but really easy to control.

[printbus]

One other tip: the sleeving melts very easily. Be careful when shrinking the tubing. I actually use a hot air solder rework station, which is way overkill, but really easy to control.

Oh man, I had forgot about that and it's good you pointed that out. You definitely don't want to try and use a lighter on the heatshrink ends with this stuff. I've melted several braided sleeves that way. I think I've even melted a few using the usual paint-stripper kind of heat gun that big box stores sell when I wasn't careful with it. I forgot about it since a number of years ago I splurged for a 250W Weller 6966C hot air gun. It's specifically intended for delicate electronic stuff like working with heatshrink. That was definitely one of my smarter purchases for my electronics hobby work.

[clough42]

I have my printer sitting on a Travertine tile. The tile provides a flat surface so the printer is always square and doesn't twist when placed on different or flexible surfaces. The tile also adds mass to the surface, reducing the amount of sound and vibration transmitted to the surface. This works especially well with the Sorbothane isolator feet because it provides a vibration sink that improves the isolation.

You can get an 18" square tile at Lowes or Home Depot in the US, usually for less than $10. I put felt pads under the corners of the tile so it conforms to the table it's sitting on.


2014-08-12 09.10.26.jpg

[Roxy]

I have my printer sitting on a Travertine tile. The tile provides a flat surface so the printer is always square and doesn't twist when placed on different or flexible surfaces. The tile also adds mass to the surface, reducing the amount of sound and vibration transmitted to the surface. This works especially well with the Sorbothane isolator feet because it provides a vibration sink that improves the isolation.

You can get an 18" square tile at Lowes or Home Depot in the US, usually for less than $10. I put felt pads under the corners of the tile so it conforms to the table it's sitting on.


2014-08-12 09.10.26.jpg

Next time I'm at Home Depot I'm going to see if I can get a big, flat 18" tile. I'm thinking wiith a diamond bit in a Dremel tool and water pouring on it... I can drill holes in the right place to Tie Wrap it down hard to the tile. Then I might be able to safely move my printer around.

[clough42]

Next time I'm at Home Depot I'm going to see if I can get a big, flat 18" tile. I'm thinking wiith a diamond bit in a Dremel tool and water pouring on it... I can drill holes in the right place to Tie Wrap it down hard to the tile. Then I might be able to safely move my printer around.

I actually did this with my i3. The Travertine drills easily with a masonry bit. I eventually abandoned the zip ties when I added the Sorbothane feet.

[TopJimmyCooks]

Clough42 - I noticed you had designed and used fan shrouds and fans for the x axis motor and extruder motor. I just got my i3V printer and have only printed 3mm pla via J Head, however none of the motors get hot. I do have some other experience with stepper motors that have gotten hot in operation but these seem fine. What types of print/materials lead to the extra cooling being needed?