the real problem is two fold:

1) cura - it's just a nightmare to use.
2) profiles.

print profiles are generally not worth the bits-n-bytes they're composed of.

They are made by someone who is not using your printer, in your house, with the material you are using, in the climatic conditions you have.
And who's idea of a good print may vary widely from your own.

There is NO substitute for learning what your slicer does and how to set every damn setting yourself.

the slicer is the single most important component of the printer-filament-slicer trilogy.

You need to know what speed things are running at.

100mm/s for an i3 with linear rails - is medium speed. that's not the issue.
The speed of the first print layer, in comparison to the main print speed is VERY important.
It needs to be sloooww.
It's not unusual for half the total print time for a smallish print to be just the first layer.
Once that's down you can speed right up.
There are exceptions.
Flexible filament are super sticky so you can run the first layer at the same speed as all the other layers (which is generally 40mm/s max)

The most important layer of any print is the first one.
If it goes down tight and flat - then the rest of the print will usually follow without issue.

So you need to understand the slicer parameters that effect it and how to change them.

And if you need glue to get that first layer down - then you us eglue !

hell over the years I';ve used everything from blue painters tape, abs slurry to pva glue sticks to 3 different types of print glue.
On everything from bare metal to glass to printbite to pei.
I even bought some hairspray - and then gave up entirely on abs and never used it - it's still around somewhere.

Commercial printglues are brilliant.
They look expensive. But A small bottle with a sponge tip applicator can last for many years. One reason i like PEI is that the print glue's seem to just enhance it's natural properties.

It's good with out glue - it's damn near miraculous with the occasional layer of glue.

When i first started my flashforge creator came with a pre-applied sheet of kapton.
I never managed to get anythign to stick to it - ever.
I've got a 50mm roll of the bloody stugff that I;ve had for over 8 years.

I think it took me a couple weeks before I ever got decent print.
It did not help that there were no decent slicers around at the time that could handle x3g files.
Makerbot desktop is hands down the worst slicer ever.

So by comparison you have it easy :-)

A print surface that might work with the right settings and a selection of slicers rthat will all talk to your printer.

You just need to download a bunch of slicers and have a play with them all and then learn to use the one that makes most sense to you.