Flashforge 3D Creator forum.

[mikeuk24]

What is the print bed? Is it the blue stuff that comes with it? If so then yes it can be tough. Glue stick may help and also letting it cool completely could help.
What material? PLA? If so then 65 is as hot as you really need to go.

hi, I received my Flashforge Creator Pro (2016 update) yesterday and my first test print in ABS also stuck really strongly to the blue tape covered bed. Do you recommend a thin layer of glue ? I previously had a Geeetech prusa with a glass plate and used a PRITT stick for adhesion. A lot of posts on the forums seem to be about how to make things stick, not how to remove them, so any tips would be appreciated.

[muddledsteve]

Hi,
Having finally battled my way through the dreaded Captcha I'm pleased to join this very useful Forum.

I found my way here for two reasons
1. The 'blue light' had gone out after an accidental 'Factory Reset' and there's no option on the printer to turn it back on again and
2. The Z-axis is too 'high' so the adjustment screws need to be almost completely unscrewed to level the bed - again no option for altering the Z axis zero.
The problem here (and I think it's relevant to many of the problems users are having) is that the bed floats too much and the slightest touch alters the levelling so the print fails.

Both these problems are solved by downloading Replicator G.
I'm not allowed to post links so I'll try to fudge
thingiverse dot com slash thing colon 32084 slash files

Connect to printer, (you'll have to find the right COM port) then select "Replicator Dual (Sailfish)" as the machine type.
There's a menu option underneath the "Machine" menu called Onboard preferences.
On the extreme right of the tabs is 'Lighting'
There's a checkbox 'Show heating progress by changing the lighting color' which should be ticked.
Under that is 'Lighting color during idle or printing' Select 'Blue' and that's fixed.

Opening a GCode window lets you reset the zero on the Z axis to a more sensible level so there's some compression on the bed springs !

Hope this helps someone else.

[davaze]

Hi, good to see this Creator section on the forum.
I recently own the Creator 3 and notice it looses WIFI connection after a while during a print job and not coming back on. Even after waking up the display the WIFI does not come back while it is printing a job. Not sure if is related to the display going into sleep mode / protection mode or something else.
Does anyone experience this as well and or found a solution for it? Because of this i loose my camera stream as well as progress indication in Flashprint while printing.

Thanks for your feedback.
Dave

[pveaston]

Hello all, only had my printer for a week or so now and found this forum very useful.
Initially my printer arrives with a couple of bolts securing one of the z axis guides missing, this caused me a few headaches as I couldnt get repeatability when levelling the heat bed, with that fixed I have had some success and fitted wing nuts to ease levelling.
I'm concerned that there appears to be little tension on the springs when I have leveled the plate, and I think this is still causing instability when I level things.

I guess this is related to the height the plate raises to during the levelling process.

Is this easily adjustable or am I worrying about nothing ?

[Dave Bodnar]

Geoff - I have the same FlashForge printer that you describe in your posting. I have a plugged up extruder and have followed your (excellent) suggestions and still have troubles. I am unable to remove the filament by pulling quite hard. I can push it through just a bit (a thin string of filament sometimes comes through) with lots of clicking. When I try to pull it out I get lots of clicking but it will not come free.

The only thing I haven't tried is removing the fan & cleaning the gear. Is that the next logical step?

I appreciate your help!

dave

[Geoff]

Geoff - I have the same FlashForge printer that you describe in your posting. I have a plugged up extruder and have followed your (excellent) suggestions and still have troubles. I am unable to remove the filament by pulling quite hard. I can push it through just a bit (a thin string of filament sometimes comes through) with lots of clicking. When I try to pull it out I get lots of clicking but it will not come free.

The only thing I haven't tried is removing the fan & cleaning the gear. Is that the next logical step?

I appreciate your help!

dave

Hi Dave yes but it's not as bad as you think.

This is how it will go down..

1. Undo the screws on the fan usually theres only 2. These lead all the way through to the motor, so once you unscrew, pull off the fan, try not to lose the screws.
2.Unplug the motor, it will come out easy now.
3. If it wont come out you might have filament still loaded? if so cut it so you can get the motor out. DONT worry about any filament left in the metal cylinder thats under the motor. That whole cylinder gets hot and melts the plastic, so its ok if there is some stuck in there.
4. On the stepper motor you will see your gear. If its full of plastic which it most likely is, as they get clogged after a bit, run the hobby knife ion between each fine gear, clean it out and it should be good to go again.


I am literally about to swap a nozzle tomorrow, so i will take some photos and put up a tutorial. Even tho I worked with photocopiers for nearly 10 years, I was still hesitant to mess with this printer, but I learnt early on.. you are going to get your hands dirty at some point, no matter what printer you own

[Dave Bodnar]

Geoff - thanks for the tips - I disassembled the unit, managed to remove the filament and cleaned the toothed gear - it was pretty clean. On reassembly it still will not feed - It appears that something is blocking the nozzle - I should think that the next step is to remove and clean the nozzle.
Your notes indicate that the next step is to drill out the nozzle - did you remove the nozzle before drilling? That is not clear from your description. I guess the hole could be drilled out while it is mounted but it makes more sense to remove it and try a solvent (acetone?) first.

Thanks again for your help.

dave

[Dave Bodnar]

Geoff - thanks for the tips - I disassembled the unit, managed to remove the filament and cleaned the toothed gear - it was pretty clean. On reassembly it still will not feed - It appears that something is blocking the nozzle - I should think that the next step is to remove and clean the nozzle.
Your notes indicate that the next step is to drill out the nozzle - did you remove the nozzle before drilling? That is not clear from your description. I guess the hole could be drilled out while it is mounted but it makes more sense to remove it and try a solvent (acetone?) first.

Thanks again for your help.

dave

Geoff - here is an update on the plugged left extruder. I contacted FlashForge tech support and Tang, a very helpful technician, led me through dis-assembly of the print head and removal of the nozzle where we discovered that the small plastic tube was distorted and plugged - he is sending a replacement.

I expect that I will be back in business when that arrives.

Thanks again for your assistance.

dave

[Terteros]

Hi
I will get the flashforge dreamer soon, so I will prepared very well for my first 3D-printing :-)
How do you fix your opject while printing on your heating plate? With the capton or with hair spray? (I read this somewhere in the internet).

Thanks
Thomas

[roykirk]

Hi
I will get the flashforge dreamer soon, so I will prepared very well for my first 3D-printing :-)
How do you fix your opject while printing on your heating plate? With the capton or with hair spray? (I read this somewhere in the internet).

Thanks
Thomas

That special tape that the units come with on the build plate didn't work worth a darn for me. Hairspray worked okay, but what I eventually ended up going with is what they call the ABS "Juice." Lots of recipes out there. Works great so far.