Flashforge 3D Creator forum.

[jgurley]

I have the CTC clone of the FF Creator. Anyone know why the hotend is wrapped in kapton tape? The thermocouple is attached via screw, so the only thing I can imagine is that it's to reduce the heat loss?

[jfkansas]

I have the CTC clone of the FF Creator. Anyone know why the hotend is wrapped in kapton tape? The thermocouple is attached via screw, so the only thing I can imagine is that it's to reduce the heat loss?

Like another has mentioned it is to insulate the heating block so heat doesn't radiate up as much and overheat the cooling bar. Heat rises so it isn't as much for keeping the heat off the printed material as it is the cooling bar.

[Mjolinor]

Like another has mentioned it is to insulate the heating block so heat doesn't radiate up as much and overheat the cooling bar. Heat rises so it isn't as much for keeping the heat off the printed material as it is the cooling bar.

The tape and insulation do not really stop the heat going upwards over much, it is to stop radiation from heating the print and the aluminium bar. Radiation is omnidirectional.

[Mjolinor]

It probably also has heat resistant material under the Kapton tape. It is to reduce radiated heat, not really in order to keep the head warm, more to stop the hot head melting your print.

[jgurley]

Thanks for the response. I was contemplating taking it off so I could get a wrench on the thing to tighten the nozzle, but I won't do that! Maybe I'll print a special socket or something. I'm forever having clicking servos due to the nozzle loosening enough to cool down.

[Mjolinor]

It is likely that it is not assembled correctly if the nozzle is coming lose,

When assembling you should tighten the nozzle before the heat tube is screwed in and then the heat tube tightens against an already tightened nozzle.

If the nozzle is tightening to the heat tube and not the aluminium heat block then they can come lose with heating and cooling.

[jgurley]

I was assembling the nozzle last. I'll try your suggestion. Thanks again.

[jfkansas]

Ya, but it is better with than without. Without the cooling bar would heat up to 400 degrees easily over time. With the insulation it only gets to about 250-300 which is far under the melting point of filaments. At 400+ you are risking melting the filament too high in the tube and it will never extrude.

Acutally the tape is just there to hold the insulation on.

[Mjolinor]

It's really a whole complicated can of worms that area of the printer. Newer heat tubes have a 20mm length of 3mm OD - 2mm ID PTFE tube up them. This is a vast improvement on solid stainless ones but beware. I bought some off ebay and on two of the four I bought, the PTFE tube did not go to the top of the 3mm hole. This caused a filament jam that you cannot clear without removing the PTFE, pushing out the bung and replacing the PTFE tube with new. Worth checking for if you have a none working head with new heat tubes in, I suppose that includes new printers too, they are jsut as likely to not fully push that tube home before cutting it off.

The temperatures in different parts around there are critical for correct operation and they keep correct by design so any changes can have knock on consequences.

[jgurley]

Mine has the PTFE tubes inside the heat tube. I've replaced it many times over the few months I've been printing. I bought some 3mm twist drills that I use to ream out the tube and nozzle, as well. The PTFE is a pretty snug fit and it is sometimes difficult to get the length of the piece just right. Too short and it develops a blockage and too long, and it twists and constricts the filament.
I've looked a new dual extruder (J-style $140 in single qty on Alibaba) but I'm not confident in my ability to deal with the possible changes to firmware to regulate the servo.

A few weeks ago, my printer really started acting up. I have to run the extruder at 240 to 245 to get PLA to print properly - I used to use 190 to 200. Also, I used to have luck with a small fan to reduce curling on my overhangs, but now the fan just cools the nozzle enough to screw up the feed. Maybe my thermister is leaving the room...

I haven't used my left extruder for months. I should try it just to see if the printing temperature is closer to normal. Haven't ever got PVA to work, so I just have the nozzle off so it doesn't snag the print. I think my plate may be warped slightly (up in the middle). I've got some ABS and HPS, but the printer is in the house and I don't think the boss would appreciate the odors. I haven't gotten nylon to work either.