New - can't get started.

[curious aardvark]

well labists sell two printers an et4 and a mini x1.
Both look to have bed levelling knobs - so you should be good there.
The onbly one with 'auto-levelling' is the et4 - so well assume that's the thing you have.

If the filament comes out curly, it usually means it's not hot enough or it's being extruded too fast.

Okay looking at the machine it appears to be a pretty standard ender 3 design.
So if you look up 'help with and how to' videos for ender 3 (and there are millions) - most should be relevant, to one degree or another.

Lets get this clear:
Auto bed levelling does NOT level a bed.

It simply maps the bed topographically and allows for beds that are not perfectly flat (ie: the manfacturers can use thinner and cheaper surfaces).
You still need to actually level the bed using teh levelling knobs at each corner.

This actually means that you determine how far from the bed the printhead is when you start printing.

Remove filament from the nozzle - heat it first :-)
Heat the nozzle to 200c (it's an arbitrary number but as it's what you should be printing most pla at - a good number to pick)
Get a sheet of printer paper - 80-90gsm works best, rip a piece off about 3 inches square.

From the control panel Home the z axis.
This 'Should' put the nozzle as close to the bed as it can get.

Sometimes the firmware will home and then move the nead up a bit - this is just to piss people off and has no real purpose.
You might need to select bed levelling from the control panel to get an unadjusted home - or possibly use something like repetier to communicate with the printer from a connected computer and use the bed levelling wizard from that.
Unfortunately with so many machines and types og firmware and controlling software around - I cannot say what you printer does, without being there or you actually telling us :-)
For the purpose of this post we'll assume it has homed with no post-homing adjustment.

move the nozzle above one of the knobs (it should move easily just using your hand). slide the paper between the nozzle and the bed.
If the paper won't fit, turn the levelling knob anti clockwise (you thumb moves from left to right).
When you can slide the paper between the bed and the nozzle with a little resistance. Stop

If the paper slides easily under the nozzle, turn the knob clockwise (thumb moves from right to left).
Until the paper slides between the nozzle and the bed with a little resistance.

Repeat this above all 4 levelling knobs.

Then do it all again - you will be surprised to find that it's changed and you will need to do each knob again :-)

Repeat until the paper slides with a little resistance at all 4 positions.

Then move the nozzle to the centre of the build plate.

If the paper slides with the same resistance as at the corners - congratulations you probably have an actual physically level bed and the auto levelling is not needed.

If, on the other hand, the paper either sticks and won't slide or slides with no resistance. You will need to run the autolevel as your bed is NOT physically flat and will need to be topographically mapped.

The whole levelling process takes a couple of minutes once you've done it a couple of times.

And is one of the most important skills the home 3d printer owner needs to master :-)

For future questions please give as much information as possible. You cannotgive us toomuch information, but people frequently give far too little.
And good luck !