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  1. #1

    Flashforge Adventurer 3 lite issue

    I posted this on the FF Forum but also wanted to see if someone could help here. Hi All, brand new to 3d printing and the forum. We purchased a 3d printer for my son for Xmas. He has been doing pretty well with it. However, is has been trying to print phone stands using various color Flashforge PLA filament. The black is completely fine, however, so far grey and orange are not cooperating. It is delaminating towards the top, thinner portion of the stand. We have tried to change the settings. The last one we tried using Flashprint was high resolution; layer height .12, 20% infill, print speed of 25 and travel speed of 55, temp max at 240 and 100. What are we doing wrong. Don't understand why the black would work with a 5 hour print and the orange/grey fail on a 5 hour print, 12 hour and 15.5 hour. Can someone educate us a little.

  2. #2
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    you said pla ?
    240c is really high for pla. and would lead to uneven layers and possible lamination.

    It's all down to flow and viscosity. If the plastic bead is too hot it will not hold it's shape between layers being applied.

    Also print speed of 25mm/s is really too slow for pla.
    It sound odd - but with such a hot print temp having the printspeed that low will actually allow the printhed to remelt the plastic and overpower whatever print area cooling is being used.

    For pla 200c is usually the best print temp - 210 would be my usual maximum at 150mm/s or above print speed (I appreciate your printer won't go that quick).

    To me it just sounds like printing too thin a later at too high a temperature and too slow a print speed.

    try 0.16 layer height, 200c print temp and 50-60mm/s print speed.
    And make sure that print area cooling is off for the first layer and 100% for all othr layers.

    Also switch flashprint to ADvanced - it's not advanced, it just lets you take control of your prints.

    I have no idea how manufacturers determine their pre-loaded print settings - but I've yet to find a printer where they are based on anything even remotely approaching reality.

  3. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by curious aardvark View Post
    you said pla ?
    240c is really high for pla. and would lead to uneven layers and possible lamination.

    It's all down to flow and viscosity. If the plastic bead is too hot it will not hold it's shape between layers being applied.

    Also print speed of 25mm/s is really too slow for pla.
    It sound odd - but with such a hot print temp having the printspeed that low will actually allow the printhed to remelt the plastic and overpower whatever print area cooling is being used.

    For pla 200c is usually the best print temp - 210 would be my usual maximum at 150mm/s or above print speed (I appreciate your printer won't go that quick).

    To me it just sounds like printing too thin a later at too high a temperature and too slow a print speed.

    try 0.16 layer height, 200c print temp and 50-60mm/s print speed.
    And make sure that print area cooling is off for the first layer and 100% for all othr layers.

    Also switch flashprint to ADvanced - it's not advanced, it just lets you take control of your prints.

    I have no idea how manufacturers determine their pre-loaded print settings - but I've yet to find a printer where they are based on anything even remotely approaching reality.
    Thank you very much. On the Flashforge PLA box it reads 240C/100C, I'm guessing that is maximum then? Does it matter what infill for stuff like phone stands and such or is 15% good enough? I'll try your specs on the next run. Thanks so much again. I'm clueless here.

  4. #4
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    that is ABS

    pla would say:180- 210c and 50c - I mean bed temp for pla should always be 65c. But manufacturers rarely get it right ;-)

    But if the roll says that - it's abs. or possibly pet-g, but definitely not pla.
    Either that or they just put the wrong settings on the label.

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by curious aardvark View Post
    that is ABS

    pla would say:180- 210c and 50c - I mean bed temp for pla should always be 65c. But manufacturers rarely get it right ;-)

    But if the roll says that - it's abs. or possibly pet-g, but definitely not pla.
    Either that or they just put the wrong settings on the label.
    So this is what I've ordered...in various colors: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    It's weird...the description says 190-220 but the box it came in says 220-240 with bed at 100. When we opened the FF up, we put in one of the rolls we purchased and used the factory settings to print a sample file. The platform kept getting detached from the bed shortly after starting. I think the bed was 50 and the temp was 215.

  6. #6
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    I've used a lot of flashforge pla - their old red filament (semi-translucent) is just about the best filament I've ever used.

    Never had abs settings on a roll of pla though.
    that's just weird.
    I reckon someone just put the wrong labels on the boxes.

    As far as settings go - never use stock off the shelf categories.
    Always use slicers in 'advanced' mode and fine tune the settings yourself.

    I've yet to see any 'standard' settings that I'd agree with :-)

    Bed adhesion is a tricky one.
    Unfortunately flashprint STILL doesn't offer any z-axis adjustment.
    I know, just installed the klatest version and it ain't there.

    So you'll need to do it the old fashioned way.

    Slow the first layer to 10mm/s. Put the bed temp up to 65c.
    have the first layer thickness set to 0.35mm.
    If you still have adhesion issues - consider investing in some print bed adhesive.

    magigoo is great, as is dimafix.
    I've also tried a generic one I 'acquired' at a tct show. Works well, 'Formula 3d' that one's called.

    They look expensive, but a little goes a long way. And you don't need to aply it very often.

    Alternative;y get a cheap sheet of self adhesive PEI off ebay and cut it to size.
    90% of a good print is getting the first layer properly fixed - so it's worth trying a few things and any money spent will be swiftly recouped by all the failed prints you don't have to throw away :-)
    Last edited by curious aardvark; 01-15-2021 at 11:47 AM.

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