Real World 3D Printer Comparison

[Roberts_Clif]

This is a good thread, wish I would have thought of it.

I have two 3D Printers "Red is a 12V Hictop 3DP11 " "Blu is a 24V Hictop 3DP12" the Printing is quite similar on Both 3D Printers.
My 12V 3D Printer can print ABS however it takes longer to get up to temperatures for printing ABS.

And my 3D Prints are not perfect although I have the benefit of having a 20-20 T-Slot Frame, this is a strong construction.
One.jpg
Two.jpg
Three.jpg

On some models where there are mounting holes I get distortion, I just read an article of how to correct this artifacting.
Now I will have to reprint this model to see how well it clears the actual artifacting.
I do not know the time required to print this model with the additional settings enabled.

I do know that the time changes considerable with different slicers and have been playing with Prusaslicer 2.3.0 alpha it has best prints though it also take the longest.

[AutoWiz]

One.jpg

I just want to apologize for neglecting a thread I started. I am making a mad dash to get my TronXY finished before the Christmas tree goes up. But I can not get over the above picture. It doesn't sit right with me. I make functional parts and so I use 3 perimiters and 3 solid top and bottom layers. The above picture shows the infill and must be 1 or 2 perimiters, no? I think this has greatly hurt my time in our comparison. No worries but to be fair I need to know how many solid layers and perimiters you are getting as they can have a large impact on print time. And I am on CA's side about your prints, bud. The first one looked awesome by my standards. You really have your printers dialed in. I will post up my print times and results on the lattice cube by the weekend.