Printer noob - Can't print consistently on FFCX

[lucidpsykosis]

what does it mean when the front, back and sides feel right but the center is tight?

[jfkansas]

what does it mean when the front, back and sides feel right but the center is tight?

That is normal, the print head sags very slightly in the middle. I usually level the bed perfectly with a postit note, then every so slighty tighten each thumbscrew just a tiny amount. Do all 3 the same. But it will print fine when the print head is a little closer to the build plate.

It helps if you decrease the weight of the print head by removing the unused stepper motor at least when not in use.

[jfkansas]

Show me 1. where 3 point auto leveling can be done reliably on a flashforge for $40, and is "plug-in" compatible with the Creator X or Pro and is supportd in firmware... 2. Why would you even want to? Especially if it adds significant weight to the moving mechanisms. Manual leveling works just fine once you learn how.

I have made some mods to my creator x to make this much more reliable though. I added the creator pro metal platform and z axis rods. Incredible difference this makes. I would start there if anything, it isn't a super difficult swap but it does require quite a bit of disassembly. You don't have to take the top rail completely off, but almost.

Lately I have seen suggestions for a new user to try and usually it is way off base or "seen on another printer". These new users can't even get a 20mm square calibration box to print right and people are suggesting to hack up their machine and wire up a bunch of add ons and none of them fix the actual root cause of the problem. Sorry this irritates me. The Flash forge Creator X is 90% fine just the way it is. Learn to use it and it creates incredible parts. The other 10% is updating to the newer platform and (if you don't use 2 extruders at the same time) removing one (left) stepper, related wiring, and print head.

Using this setup I have had good results printing as fast as 120mm/s on larger parts. Huge increase in speed over the 60-80mm/s you are limited to with the heavier dual heads.

[lucidpsykosis]

I wholeheartedly appreciate all your suggestions and help. I have been considering removing the left extruder, but not sure how to do it though.

[jfkansas]

It really isn't difficult, but removing it doesn't fix the root cause of your issues. I am betting on 2 things. 1. When the build plate is heated the front sags and is too far away from the extruder. Fix, you need to fully heat the build plate and then level all three screws. 2. you need a front cover for the machine to block airflow through the machine (For ABS only though). It is easy to make. Just need a 10"x15" piece of plexi from the hardware store and some 3m clips to hold it on. Total cost is about 10-15 bux.

For future upgrade I would get the Creator Pro platform upgrade. Totally worth it.

[lucidpsykosis]

I'll try the first two points tomorrow...thanks

[lucidpsykosis]

Geoff, you were right about the painters tape...I don't like the finish either.

[lucidpsykosis]

Today I started with a new roll of Black PET+ filament that I got in the mail. Heated the plate and leveled it the best I could. I was able to print a piece that turned out remarkably well. When I then tried to print another piece, it started messing up halfway through the first layer. I remembered a video I watched from an engineer who rough leveled his plate with a depth micrometer, then printed a .1mm thick print and adjusted the corners as he went...I tried that (minus the depth mic) and got it dialed in pretty good. The only downside is, my print has marks on the bottom from all the little tears in the Kapton tape. When my glass gets delivered, I should be good to go I think. BTW, how to I compensate for the glass thickness (1/8) so it doesn't shatter when the extruders come down?

[Peet@FFUSA]

Today I started with a new roll of Black PET+ filament that I got in the mail. Heated the plate and leveled it the best I could. I was able to print a piece that turned out remarkably well. When I then tried to print another piece, it started messing up halfway through the first layer. I remembered a video I watched from an engineer who rough leveled his plate with a depth micrometer, then printed a .1mm thick print and adjusted the corners as he went...I tried that (minus the depth mic) and got it dialed in pretty good. The only downside is, my print has marks on the bottom from all the little tears in the Kapton tape. When my glass gets delivered, I should be good to go I think. BTW, how to I compensate for the glass thickness (1/8) so it doesn't shatter when the extruders come down?

Download and print a Creator X Z-axis offset. Rest it on the the build platform support behind the build plate and you're good to go! Double check that the height of the Z-axis shim is the same as the thickness of the glass.

If you want to print with ultra-fine resolution (eg. 80 microns), a good recommendation is to level with a feeler gauge.

Peter

[lucidpsykosis]

Download and print a Creator X Z-axis offset. Rest it on the the build platform support behind the build plate and you're good to go! Double check that the height of the Z-axis shim is the same as the thickness of the glass.

If you want to print with ultra-fine resolution (eg. 80 microns), a good recommendation is to level with a feeler gauge.

Peter

Thanks Peter I printed the offset, and it works great. Glass is working out soooo much better than the tape; I guess its just what happens when you're new at this and you make mistakes. Anywho, I got it where I can see how the filament is being laid out, and how to adjust for it, so that's a good thing. The best I've been able to print with a fair amount of decency is .1 mm...didn't know if I could push it more than that with this printer.