you can print all the pla and petg now.
pet-g tends to go 235-250
I've never printed pla hotter than 215.
And the hi-temp stuff prints at normal temps.

If you decide to go for any filament with carbon included then a hardened nozzle would be a good diea. But for the cost of one stainless steel nozzle you can probably buy 20 or 30 brass ones.
Kinda swings and roundabouts :-)

As far as print beds go - maybe try some magigoo - there is a special mix for all the exotics.
The good thing with a decent 3d printing adhesive, is that you can apply it to any existing surface.
I'm currently printing directly on the aluminium plate on my sapphire pro - till my sheet of pei arrives.

So if and when you get round to trying some of the higher spec filaments - just get the right adhesive and use the existing bed.
https://magigoo.com/

I actually prefer dimafix - but I'm not sure it's still being made and the 50ml I got about 4 years ago is still going strong :-)
You don't need much and it's really only uif you have issues.

Actually you can still get it : https://dimafix.com/es/
basically I got acouple of 25mm samples in the tubes about 4 years ago. And I've still got about half left.
It lasts for a long time and stuff sticks to it when hot and not when cool. So unless you get impatient - like I often am - and remove the print while the bed is still hot , one application lasts for months.

As far as the ender goes.
Does the pro have dual z-axis screws ? (quick look - doesn't seem to)
If not, that's the first thing I'd add.
Until you do, you don't want to add any extra weight to the extruder carriage.
And an extruder and a stepper motor is a fair bit of weight.

Also you only really need direct drive for printing with flexible filaments. The stiffer filaments work fine through a bowden. Or the delta would never have taken off - and I love my deltas :-)
Without the second z-screw all a direct drive extruder would do is cause to to have to print alow slower.
Pushing a long gantry up at just one end - was never a good idea and the more moving weight you put on it the worse it will get.
What people don't realise is that the difference between a good print and a bad one can often be measured in a few hundredths of a millimetre.
So the unless both sides of the gantry are pusched up at the same time - there is always going to be an offset between the end being pushed and the end coasting along on some cheapo wheels.

I would imagine you can get a kit that consists of: stepper motor, threaded rod, and the various brackets and connectors. (yes you can - but probably cheaper to make your own)
You don't even have to have a second z-axis stepper socket on the motherboard as the z-axis motors don't need much power you can just splice the two together into the one socket. It's actually how most cheap boards handle it anyway. Two sockets linked to just the one driver.


But that - for me - is the biggest issue with the ender design.
here ya go: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Creality-En...Cclp%3A2334524