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  1. #1
    Hey Guys,No luck with the PETG thus far.


    I'm using the exact same settings for the hardware, and file except temperature is 235 Nozzle, 80 on the bed.I'm noticing the PETG is not adhering to the bed surface [factory Ender bed substrate].


    I've tried a glass bed cover as well without luck.More issues is the printer is showing odd signs of operation. Sometimes the print will have sections that appear separated, or "balled up".


    Almost every other print requires me to remove the nylon tube from the print head and "un-stick" the filament so it will feed properly. Otherwise, the feeder cog wheel will just spin and spool stops rotating.


    All of this happened with ABS, but now it's more prominent. Probably not material related, but more the printer itself.



    I'll post this in trouble-shooting as well.
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  2. #2
    Engineer-in-Training
    Join Date
    Aug 2020
    Location
    United Kingdom
    Posts
    249
    Hi This thread started about ABS of which I have a little knowledge. Perhaps I can help, despite a student profile definition I am a scientist and development engineer of more than 50 years experience and back at the beginning of lockdown was asked by the scientific consultancy I am a member of to look into bring 3d printing in house to reduce the disruption caused by the delays of sending out 3d prints to a bureau. As a result we purchased a basic machine(a ender 3pro-sorry curious Aardvark)p and set up and controlled experiment as to what we could do with it. We wanted to be able to print in ABS and Nylon routinely.

    As part of that we tried a very large number or build plate materials and adhesion aids - bat thats another story!! we also bought a range ABS filaments to try ( I know that is only possible when you have a company cheque book !) . In the case of ABS filaments we tried 3 filaments with a couple os standard models that we already had had made by SLS in nylon. We found that with a model with an area in contact with the bed plate of 53 x 53 mm and sharpish corners we had reliable printing with only one of the materials which was 3dfiloprints ABS X and that the reliable ( almost 100% success) with either Enders accessory Glass plate with printed on texture or Fufnol Whale Grade SRBF sheet sanded with 220 to remove the shiny surface both best with a thin layer of ABS juice.

    print Settings

    layer Ht 0.3 initial
    Layer body 0.2
    Build Temp 245
    initial Temp 250
    Build Plate 80
    These temps used building onto a 1mm Tufnol Sheet clamped to the Creality glass bed (plain side)

    Fan ON

    Speed printing 70mm/s
    initial 35mm/s
    we use a skirt to start the extruder and work in a perspex enclosure with no additional Heating.

    I hope that helps.

  3. #3
    abs separate in UV, or so they state.. you should take a gander at PETG for this part on the off chance that it is just warmth/sun that is driving no PLA. The part looks straightforward without a great deal of little projections. PETG would be great, I use it for outside camera mounts. No walled in area, not distorting yet not an edge as ABS but rather entirely tough curves a great deal before it breaks.

  4. #4
    Thank you Gambo for the detailed reply.

    I'll give it a try once my printer is functional once again!A while ago, I took apart the printer due to a jam, and periodic mis-printing.


    The epoxy/ceramic around the nozzle, and the Teflon wrap was chipped away and no longer part of the print head.When removing the nylon tube, I didn't take note of the depth within the print head.


    Now I'm noticing the PLA gets jammed as shown in the image below, almost all of the time. The distance of thetube between the nozzle has been adjusted between a 1/4" and completely touching.


    The bed to nozzle adjustmentis one sheet of paper at all four corners (checked twice). Also used feeler gauges. I've tried a higher bed to nozzle calibration thinking it was too tight.For whatever reason, the filament jams itself almost instantly, however when pre-heating the nozzle & bed, I can handfeed the PLA through the entire assembly and it exits with ease.


    Where do I begin troubleshooting? Is the printer no longer able to print without the white epoxy and Teflon wrap (heat sink)?
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