to make abs worth printing - and personally I don't think it's worth the hassle. you need to reduce how each layer cools.
So even an 'unheated' (rather, not temperature controlled as it's heated by the : bed, print head and any other parts that get warm during use) perspex enclosure will help tremendously by keeping the entire print at the same temperature and avoiding each layer cooling and shrinking seperately.

Actually printing abs is pretty easy - my first 6 months printing | used nothing else but abs on a non-enclosed machine.
I swore a lot more and was never really happy with the prints - but by using a raft I never had any adhesion issues.
Often there were issues removing the raft from the base of the print - the longer the print the harder it is to do.

Once I discovered that everything I'd read online about pla was pretty much 100% wrong. I never touched abs again. No more stink in my workshop - no more rafts and crappy prints. Stronger better looking prints and when I added the sheet of Printbite - no more glue or adhesion hassle :-)
At that point printing became a joy rather than a chore.
And the printers began to 'breed' (currently have 6)

When you consider that abs stinks. shrinks, is not great for anything that will be in direct sunlight and really is not well suited to 3d printing, then pla and pet-g are usually much better choices.
And there are so many other specialist filaments around that you can pretty much tailor the filament you use to any specific task.

But if you are going to persist in using abs - then keeping the model at a constant temperature as close to the build plate temp as possible and cooling the entire part at the same time, so that shrinkage is consistent across all layers, is pretty crucial.

@Gambo - odd choice of printer lol
But thanks for the information - any actual hard information and methodical approach, is always welcome :-)