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  1. #1
    I got my 10" I3v 2 weeks ago and love it! took me about 10hrs to build. been making spare parts and small upgrades for it.

  2. #2
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    I should be fixing my order tonight, so mine should ship early next week. I think I am going to go the route of gmay3, and spray paint the wood pieces before putting them together.

  3. #3
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    Some great info here guys. I am very seriously considering this printer.

    I originally was going to buy a Wanhao Duplicator 4. They seem to have a decent following, and since they are modeled off the Makerbots alot of the support for them carries over.
    I generally dont mind kits, but this being my first 3D printer I was leaving toward an assembled printer.
    The Wanhao seems like it would be very sturdy since it has a full case, they actually just released the Duplicator 4S, that has an all steel case.

    Do you guys feel the Prusa printers are made well as far as being sturdy and ridged?

    One thing I seem to be hung up on is build volume. I dont neeeeed it to be huge, but I really dont want to run into things I want to print but cant due to size.
    The Wanhao has a build volume of 225mm x 145mm x 150mm, vs. the Prusa 10" being 254mm x 254mm
    I also like that the Prusa is upgradable, and I see there are already larger heated beds available.
    Really wish they had a 12" x 12" kit !!!!!!!! I would buy that for sure!
    I dont want to deal with modding it right at first though, since this is my first printer, I think it would be best to build it stock. Then maybe upgrade later.

    The Wanhaos are also enclosed. Do any of you feel that the open design of the Prusa hurts your prints?
    I have read that having an enclosure helps with printer ABS.
    I suppose I could eventually build some sort of lexan box to place over the Prusa.

    I assume the software side of things is good with the Prusa also?
    As far as being able to use the typical softwares like ReplicatorG, Makerware, Sli3r? (I plan to print from SD card)
    What about the firmware thats on the Prusa, is it considered to be good firmware?

    Thanks for the help guys, itching to order one!

  4. #4
    Staff Engineer printbus's Avatar
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    Yep. Different motor. AFAIK, the "hot" ones are 42BHH48-050-24A.

    EDIT: So that search engines pick it up, the type number in drone's servo picture is 42BHH48-151K-24B. That's likely a 4V 1.5 amp motor, a better fit.
    Last edited by printbus; 09-02-2014 at 03:25 PM.

  5. #5
    Engineer-in-Training gmay3's Avatar
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    Thanks for the picture Drone and thanks printbus for the part number breakdown.

    Hmm, I suspect I have the hot ones as well. I haven't any issues as they have not gotten hot enough to melt the ABS extruder or anything, they just run extremely hot to the touch. I'll check the number and report back.

  6. #6
    Engineer clough42's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by printbus View Post
    Yep. Different motor. AFAIK, the "hot" ones are 42BHH48-050-24A.

    EDIT: So that search engines pick it up, the type number in drone's servo picture is 42BHH48-151K-24B. That's likely a 4V 1.5 amp motor, a better fit.
    I'm so glad to see this. But sad that I've got the old motors.

    Looks like Colin is importing these things in tremendous quantities: https://www.importgenius.com/importers/maker-farm-inc

    2075KG of motors is a lot of motors.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by clough42 View Post
    I'm so glad to see this. But sad that I've got the old motors.

    Looks like Colin is importing these things in tremendous quantities: https://www.importgenius.com/importers/maker-farm-inc

    2075KG of motors is a lot of motors.
    Wow, there is no way that can be cheap!

  8. #8
    Engineer-in-Training gmay3's Avatar
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    usarmyaircav,

    I just wanted to clarify that it was printbus that spray painted his parts before assembly. Mine's still the bare wood but if I had to do it again I would spray paint em!

  9. #9
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    Thanks for the clarification gmay3! I just got notification that my 10" I3v shipped!

  10. #10
    Engineer-in-Training gmay3's Avatar
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    That's great! Also, I should mention that I used thread locker blue on every structural screw without a locknut that did not need to be calibrated or adjusted in the future.

    Just to avoid any confusion, some examples of where not to put threadlocker would be the bed leveling screws, screws used to mount the 3d printed extruder parts or hot end to the x carriage, and essentric spacer assemblies. Also do not use threadlocker when the nylon locking nuts are required.

    Some examples of where to use threadlocker would be the x and y carriage structures and frame screws where a nut trap is used with a non locking nut.

    If you have any questions during your build, Colin is a great resource, but also feel free to ask all of us!

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