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  1. #11
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    Oh no. Well I am sorry for the bad advice. I wish I had a more comprehensive amount of experience with different build surfaces but once I got away from the painters tape Gecko Tek is the first I tried and they have worked so well for me I haven't got much real world experience with others to be speaking about. However, you might find some help in the Ultimate Materials Guide from Simplify3d. Right here: https://www.simplify3d.com/support/m...uide/flexible/

  2. #12
    think gone go with the tape then.
    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Blue-Tape...OXADCl8QZQXNYw

    Thank you for your help

  3. #13
    Finally got my new glass plate delivered so menage to level up the bed to a workable condition.But Still experiencing the problem with the blocked nozzle and a bit inconsistent layers.So I tried to increase nozzle temperature to 210 C and bed to 70C. I did help with the layer inconsistency but still after few layers I'm ending up with a blocked nozzle.Any Ideas where may be the problem? xD I'm using PLA and have upgraded the PTFE tubes with fittings.

  4. #14
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    Well i think 70c is a bit high for the bed for PLA. I like 50 or 60 with the glass. But that is not your problem. The cheap azz extruder in your ender3 uses a ptfe liner that is sadly sensitive to higher temps and can be deformed and cause these problems. If it were me, I might be trying to entertain some kind of all metal hotend conversion. Maybe something genuinely from E3D. Just so you know you don't have to worry past the installation.

  5. #15
    Any particular model on your mind?

  6. #16
    Engineer
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    Micro Swiss makes some nice stuff. Not the cheapest but superb quality. They make a drop in all metal hotend with a titanium heatbreak and a plated wear resistant nozzle. This is drop in replacement in a high quality right here: https://www.amazon.com/Micro-Hotend-...a-568313010230

  7. #17
    Is there any other way around it? I can't believe have they can even charge money for such a shit printer. Shame that I can't go back in time and buy a proper printer instead of this fake one. Don't know if after gone have other problems involving spending money agin

  8. #18
    Engineer Roberts_Clif's Avatar
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    Jun 2017
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    Wanted to say that I have the Same Hot-end as that on the Ender 3.
    I have been 3D Printing PLA and ABS for 3 Years now.
    And I will tell you that it is not the Ender 3's Hot-End that is the problem.

    Here is a photo of an MPCNC that I 3D Printed in ABS with my Hictop 3DP11/12.

    My MPCNC-1.jpg

    And here are my Hictop 3D Printers

    The Twins 2018-3.jpg

    3D Printer before Modifications can be seen here

  9. #19
    Is it a fake printer then?

  10. #20
    Engineer
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    FYI in the picture posted I see MK8 extruders. These are not what is on the ender 3. Not even the same type. MK8 in your pictures are direct drive and the ender3 has a Bowden setup. Just saying. I know my extruders well. I have changed so many right here on this forum. So many. apples and oranges. This is why we should go join facebook groups for our specific machine.

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